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Thread: trim removal

  1. #1

    trim removal

    Hi everyone,
    Anybody out there have experience removing the side and stainless window trim off of a 4 door '65 futura wagon ?

  2. #2
    I've never done it before but I've heard it can be tricky to get it removed without crimping the metal. If I recall, somebody mentioned using a "church key" or can/bottle opener to carefully get under the trim and work it off.

    I was trying to do a search for "stainless window trim" on www.tffn.net but the site may be having problems because it just kept working at it and never showed the search results. You might try that later if nobody here has done it.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  3. #3
    63vert Guest
    Hi-
    I have to replace my windshield as it is badly cracked and chipped...so I too need to remove the trim. I am hoping to remove everything before the car is painted and then have Smart Glass install a new windshield and re-install the trim.

    Did you find a magic trick to removing the trim without crimping it? If you, or others, have any advice please pass it along.

    Thanks

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 63vert View Post
    Hi-
    I have to replace my windshield as it is badly cracked and chipped...so I too need to remove the trim. I am hoping to remove everything before the car is painted and then have Smart Glass install a new windshield and re-install the trim.

    Did you find a magic trick to removing the trim without crimping it? If you, or others, have any advice please pass it along.

    Thanks
    The side glass trim and windshield trim work very differently. The windshield trim is done as part of the glass installation. Do NOT try to remove the trim without removing the glass first.

    Call Alderwood Glass and they can take care of you. This is one of the last glass shops that wil work on old Fords. In fact, the guy there drives a Fairlane.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  5. #5
    63vert Guest
    Hi-
    I think you may have just saved me a bundle.

    I know my dad removed the windshield in a ’65 Mustang prior to having it painted, then we installed an original tinted one from a ’66 (The ’66 was in our family from day one. My parents actually picked it up at the factory and drove it to Seattle. Unfortunately it was totaled one fourth of July when someone who had been celebrating too much failed to negotiate a curve.)

    Anyway, perhaps Alderwood Glass could be added to the list of local resources as well?

  6. #6
    Lawrence,

    If you suspect you'll need to do some cleaning and prepping the area before the new glass gets put in, then you can pop it out yourself since you don't plan on saving the glass. From the inside take a nice sharp razor knife and cut the inside lip of the rubber gasket off (you should always use new rubber anyway, and it's affordable). This is the only real thing holding the glass in. Be careful not to cut the headliner away where it tucks under the rubber. It actually goes under the rubber and then wraps around the metal lip that hold the rubber in. There are a couple of screws on the outside in the corners to remove as well. When you have the inner rubber lip and screws removed, sit on the front seat and place your feet firmly at the top of the windshield with your feet about 3-feet apart and GENTLY start pushing outward (if you've got a friend who can help spot you, that will keep you catapulting the glass over the hood). When the seal pulls away you can stop, go outside and lift it out in one piece. Now you can clean all the grooves on the car body and touchup any paint/rust, polish the stainless and have it cleaned and ready for the glass guy to slap in the new one. You won't be getting him to do much more than remove and install, so do the removal yourself so you can get a top-notch finished product knowing what's under it all is sound. Make sure they can get the new rubber as well, or have it on hand when they come. You can buy it at any of the Falcon vendors.

    Hope this helps!
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #7
    63vert Guest
    Wow- Roger...you make it all sound so simple.

    Thanks a lot for the step by step instructions and the tip about replacing the rubber. I remember seeing the outside screws you mention, but will have to take a closer look at the interior.

    Thanks again.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 63vert View Post
    Wow- Roger...you make it all sound so simple.

    Thanks a lot for the step by step instructions and the tip about replacing the rubber. I remember seeing the outside screws you mention, but will have to take a closer look at the interior.

    Thanks again.
    Well, Lawrence, the fact is: THAT is the easy part. Well, maybe the cleaning up of all the old tar-based window sealer, the sanding/priming/painting the rusted areas and polishing stainless, isn't as easy, but getting the glass out is a piece of cake. And you'll be glad you did -- to give you ample time to get the area under the rubber seal a good thorough prepping.

    You'll have to trim that rubber away only up to the edge that begins to move towards the glass to get it to not "hang up" on the metal body lip as you push it out. And you also don't need to remove it along the dash, since you'll only be pushing it out from the top. Once the glass and seal are freed from the body you'll be lifting it up off the bottom lip -- rubber lip intact.

    Getting the new one in, with trim, and getting the trim and the rubber in the correct orientation and keeping it there while you push on the glass from the outside and pulling the rope from the inside at the same time to get the glass to seat -- while trying not to get black from head to foot with the new tar-based window sealer -- that's the hard part. Been there -- done that more times than I want to remember. But have at the removal. You'll see it's not that hard.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #9
    Changing the rear window on my `62 was a good learning experience but as anyone who was there can vouch...it sure can get messy. Especially when you have to take it back out to straighten the seal.

    But yea...take it out yourself and take your time to make sure it has a good, clean, rust free lip for the new seal to be installed. If there's a good place around like Alderwood Glass that is able to do these older style windshields, I would let them do the installation for sure. There's a lot of things going on when you install and anyone with experience will be much more likely to get it right. They'll have to make sure to get the stainless trim in place, be sure the seal is aligned around the window properly, have the right amount of sealant in place, get the rope in place, etc..., etc...

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906

    Rain gutter trim removal and restoration

    HI Everyone...Since this thread is out there...I'll keep it going.

    RE: the stainless rain gutter trim over the doors...I'm a bit worried about these.
    a) I've never done or seen these removed before..
    b) There doesn't seem to be much out there in terms of potential replacements if I screw it up.
    c) on my drivers side, lots of small dents to remove...
    d) Ideally I get them off here before I send the car over for body and paint...in a few weeks

    Phil (body and paint) say's he is comfortable with doing it, but it's about an hour per side to get them off and I was hoping to get east and back all in the same day to save cost.

    Anyone out there feel comfortable mentoring me through this or know of an article on it?

    Anyone know someone out there that is somewhat expert in this?

    Assuming it get them off ok: How difficult will it be to take care of all those dents myself....I am considering bringing the one on the drivers side to someone who does that stuff for part of a living...

    Thanks as always...
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  11. #11
    Removing the trim isn't hard to do, but requires patience and skill. I have special set of tools I use, in particular, a special pair of can openers. Note both can openers are taped on the ends, very important.

    With these, a few other tools, time, skill, and patience I can remove trim without damage and have done so many times.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by PhilC; November 21st, 2014 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Add info
    Phil

  12. #12
    Ditto what Phil said. Excuse my childish drawing, but it shows a cross-section of the roof, drip rail, and the stainless. Notice the shape of the stainless. It hooks over the top edge of the drip rail and the bottom has a built-in ramp to allow it to snap over easily - as well as being removed easily.

    This stuff bends really easy, so I use a very small pry bar. It wider than the tools Phil mentions (can opener style) and the broad surface tend to transfer the prying motion over a wider area - minimizing the single-point force, which can create a dimple at that location. As it comes loose - use some masking tape to hold up the part you've removed so it doesn't sag, and possibly bend from its own weight. Once the entire length has the bottom-side "unhooked" you can lift the trim off and begin the restoration process.

    I have and use a very small anvil and trim hammer. Being stainless you can pound out the dents, flip it over and file/sand/polish to get it smooth again.

    Keep in mind that it probably has 50 years of rain and other things that has seeped into and behind it. Rust even. So patience is a must. It may take a while to remove, but nowhere near the amount of time it would take to straighten - if you get too anxious.

    Also, when painting the drip rail, be careful not of over-paint this. It it grows in thickness due to too much paint, you'll have a hard time getting the stainless on.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; November 24th, 2014 at 08:35 AM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    You guys are AWESOME!
    Phil, I had no doubt you could do it...I just really prefer to save some time waiting on the transport day...and the big man in the sky knows I need to save all the money I can...I started to get the idea formed in my head from your description.

    Roger, I read your comments earlier but didn't get a chance too look at your diagram until about 30 min ago...and that diagram did it. Totally clear once I understood the geometry of the lip on the bottom side (which is hard to see on the car itself.)

    I ran right down, grabbed the tools in the pictures, and had it off with no damage in about 20 minutes. (I'll save the other side for later.) The combination of your diagram and advice and in Phil's voice in my head telling me "It takes a lot of patience Don..." That did it.

    Now my biggest challenge after the car is gone is to figure out where to put it (and then restore it) without stepping on it!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by dhbfaster View Post
    Now my biggest challenge after the car is gone is to figure out where to put it (and then restore it) without stepping on it!
    First - two or three nails up high on the wall somewhere to get it off the floor. Then you can get this kit from Eastwood for $30 to hammer out the dents.

    p38881.jpg

    http://www.eastwood.com/trim-hammer-and-anvil-kit.html
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mill Creek
    Posts
    1,224

    trim removal

    They sell a kit of tools at Harbor Freight for removing trim and other parts that I bought for around $6.00. It worked great for taking off those parts although I did add some tape to keep it from scratching the trim.
    I used several different small punches and a small hammer to remove hundreds of small dents from the trim, grill, and other parts. Just take your time and they will all come out.
    Larry Smith
    1964 Futura
    347 stroker



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