Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 54

Thread: Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

  1. #31

    That's the brakes.

    Here is my updated configuration. The brake lines attach directly to the master cylinder and the only pipe thread is for the hydraulic brake light switch.
    master cylinder.JPG

    The owner of the Meineke car care center near my house used a hand-held hydraulic press to make the flare in my brake lines, and he did it for free! He's a good guy.

    Tube Nuts and Flares.JPG

    Here is my final parts list for the conversion:
    From NAPA auto parts:
    Part Number M2036 New 1967 Ford Mustang Master Cylinder, $63.49
    Part Number SL134 Stoplight Switch, 1/8-NPT, 27 threads per inch, $8.99
    Part Number 641-3296, Brake Fit Tube Nut, $0.69
    Part Number 641-3322, Brake Fit Tube Nut, $0.69

    From O’Reilly auto parts.
    Part Number PA-308, 8” x 3/16” brake line with a fitting on each end (2 X $4.99), $8.98
    Part Number 130333, 3/16” Union Tee (3/16" fitting has 3/8" - 24 threads), $5.99

    From e-bay:
    Part Number: ALL50137, AllStar Performance 3/16" Inverted Female Brass Tee Brass with a 1/8” NPT gauge port, $8.49 + free postage
    Grand Total: $88.83.

    Trivia: I used a bathroom scale and found that the 1967 Mustang master cylinder weighs 5.2 lbs.

    The clerk told me that it was actually less expensive for me to buy a new rather than a reconditioned master cylinder because I did not have an old master cylinder to turn it for the core fee. NAPA Master Cylinder for 1967 Mustang with manual brakes: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Master-Cylinder-New/_/R-NMAM2036_0358750724

    “Beginning in 1967, Ford went to the federally mandated dual braking system, which provides braking pressure should the front or rear system fail. This is a dual reservoir master cylinder, with separate reservoirs feeding master cylinder bores positioned in tandem. Stepping on the brake pedal pressurizes separate front and rear brake systems.”
    See: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar.../photo_03.html
    Last edited by ew1usnr; January 3rd, 2014 at 08:47 AM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  2. #32
    Nice work so far.

    Quote Originally Posted by ew1usnr View Post
    “Beginning in 1967, Ford went to the federally mandated dual braking system, which provides braking pressure should the front or rear system fail. This is a dual reservoir master cylinder, with separate reservoirs feeding master cylinder bores positioned in tandem. Stepping on the brake pedal pressurizes separate front and rear brake systems.”
    See: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar.../photo_03.html
    I'm always amazed at all the car technologies that we have because the government pressed the issue. Disk brakes, fuel injection, dual circuit master, air bags, seat belts.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #33

    Dual reservoir conversion.

    For several reasons, I wimped out and let my local Meineke shop install the dual master cylinder.

    A 1967 master cylinder in a 1963 Falcon. Fifty years ago, this would have been "The Falcon of the Future, .... Today!" My Futura is now (or would have been) truly Futuristic! Notice the curly bends in the brake lines:
    dual cylinder.jpg

    Lines off dual cylinder:
    lines off dual cylinder.jpg

    Meineke said that they ran into a problem (without problems things would be too easy). The existing brake lines were not fitting correctly because the nuts were rounded and the flares were old. When they trimmed the ends to add new flares and nuts, the lines were not long enough. They used a pair of flared adapters to graft new lengths of brake line onto the existing lines. See the brass-colored fitting on the right front brake line in the picture:
    top coupling.jpg

    Here is a close up of that fitting:
    top coupling close-up.jpg

    They also added a coupling to the brake line going to the rear:
    lower coupling.jpg

    My engine and engine compartment are all dusty from the car being sanded while it was at the paint shop. I will wash them with a wet sponge this weekend and try to clean them up.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; January 21st, 2014 at 07:53 PM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I should have mentioned that part. We used a few of those double flair couplers on installations as well. Same reason... Kenny had forgotten his brake line lengthening tool so we made do

    Nice work and thank you

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  5. #35

    I future while I'm at it job

    I for one can not over stress the need to have good, trustworthy brakes, so this is a good first step. I would have though, had I had what they had at their disposal (a rack), run a new line all the way to the back and to the passenger wheel. We're talking less that 15' of line. Extra joints I'm not a fan of. These steel lines after 50 years are sure to be less than pretty internally and externally, since brake fluid is both corrosive and collects moisture. Anyway, something to consider. I did both my wagon and Ranchero - just because. Watch them closely. If you see any seepage, buy a coil of 3/16" brake line(in bulk) and have these replaced.

    Or drive it up here and we'll make it a tech day!

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Tillamook
    Posts
    46
    Thanks for posting all this stuff up as I am just in the process of doing this and finding this thread just made searching so easy

  7. #37

    That's the Brakes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    ... run a new line all the way to the back and to the passenger wheel.
    I agree, Roger. From the mechanic's perspective, I asked him to replace the master cylinder and that is what he tried to limit the job to. Customers can sometimes freak out if a mechanic replaces a lot more than the customer originally asked for.

    My brakes are in great shape now with new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and now a master cylinder. I will change the brake lines (maybe with stainless steel?) whenever the brakes need to be redone again.

    But, I will never need to re-do the brakes unless I start driving the car and racking up some mileage! Everything seems to be fixed now (knock on wood), so my goal is to add at least 5,000 miles to the odometer this year. Adding 10,000 would really make me happy.

    1-Pear Harbor II.jpg
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by ew1usnr View Post
    Attached image
    It's too late...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; January 22nd, 2014 at 12:28 PM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Whew...just pounded through all these threads. Roger....any more thoughts about that finalized updated pdf you mentioned below...??

    I'm hoping to finally have the rear axle done soon and need to order some brake line, fittings and the cutting and flare tools. I figured it would be a good place to start with new line, fittings and bending since it's all up on the bench now-and everything else on the brake system is bran new. Then...work my way forward as things progress. BUT...so many options just on brake line.

    Any comments on what kind of brake line to buy if I'm going to replace all the brake lines?
    It seems like standard steel brake line is just fine? But some is soft, some hard, some copper nickel coated, some more flexible, also ebay options...and I'm seeing the Eastwood flaring tool is really expensive- and on the other hand I see super cheap ones. I assume there is a good one in the middle? Appreciate any advice.
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by dhbfaster View Post
    any more thoughts about that finalized updated pdf you mentioned...??
    I know, probably would be a good idea. RSN (Real Soon Now).

    I'm not sure what to offer on the line, other than my experience. I order 25-50' spools of standard steel line from Napa and make up all mine that way, but there are advantages to SS and the other new coated lines. Just have no experience with them - though I have tried making a new flare on the coated. It didn't work out right using the standard double flaring tool. Probably wants the high-end flaring tool to do it right. The standard steel line will eventually rust away like the original, but I'll be long gone by then.

    I assume you are just doing a standard single-to-dual conversion. No discs. If so, with the early brake light switch being hydraulic, this is the only variation between the two systems (pre and post 64). On pre-64 most convert to mechanical switch inside the car by either adapting to the '65 style switch or removing the rubber stop for the brake pedal and putting a switch in its place. Either way works, though the '65 switch requires a '65 pedal or a modified bolt to hook the switch and M/C rod onto. That's what I did to my Ranchero. Finding the '65 pedal would have been easier in hind-sight. You can also retain the hydraulic switch, but it will require an 1/8" pipe thread (female to female) coupler and a tee (1/8" NPT and two 3/16" inverted flare) to utilize it.

    It's really pretty simple and as a club we're willing to help. Just arrange a tech day.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  11. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Tech day I'm in. It would be nice to go help someone else as the last three or four tech days have been over here!
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  12. #42

    Update?

    Did anybody ever finish their project? I searched for an installed example but have not fond one. I'm puzzled over the placement of the old lines. Mine like the picture in the instructions will to be connected in the front of the new unit not to the side. This is for my 1963 Comet the Falcons and Mustangs groups are big on this upgrade.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #43
    I've always recommended this document to get you started. And they are doing it on a Comet too!

    http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs...erCylinder.pdf

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
    I've always recommended this document to get you started. And they are doing it on a Comet too!

    http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs...erCylinder.pdf
    That's where I started. After reading the entire thread I have a really good idea of the cleanest way to do this.
    It's the dressing of the lines from side to front that's unclear. Will the new master fit behind the old connections? Or is it one more thing not to sweat because the old lines are somewhat moveable.

  15. #45
    It all depends how good your old lines are as to how well they'll move about. I've always used new lines on mine but have done a couple with existing lines. Feed those to the tee with 3-way 3/16 flare and new short line to M/C. If using hydraulic switch I used a 3/16 tee, but one branch was 1/8" pipe thread and still use a new short line to the M/C. The M/C lines both need larger fittings anyway, so get the 3/16 line to correct fitting size nuts and make a couple 12" lines and curl them into about 1.5" spools to give you nice looking adapter lines to the two tees. It doesn't matter if the brake switch goes into the front or rear of the M/C and the old lines hang out under the new M/C with these new short lines going down to them.

    Don with Granddad's Falcon just got his plumbed last weekend so maybe he can post a picture. It will match what I last described.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



Similar Threads

  1. converting to dual master cylinder questions
    By cometcougar in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: July 13th, 2014, 08:26 AM
  2. Brake master cylinder
    By BadBird in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: November 15th, 2013, 10:42 PM
  3. Master Cylinder Help
    By Dalton in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: July 7th, 2011, 05:22 PM
  4. Conversion help
    By Senior citizen in forum Parts Wanted
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: September 7th, 2007, 01:33 AM
  5. Booster and dual master cylinder
    By BadBird in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: March 2nd, 2007, 10:28 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •