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Thread: Scarebird Information

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    OK, never mind. I see we are "approving" messages now. I'll have two request now. Shoot.
    We are moderating the classified section now due to all the spam. All the other forums operate as always.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451
    Roger,
    I may have the original re-worked hubs we installed on my car (the ones with which we "staked" the studs). Mark Janis subsequently modified the hubs we took off and I have installed those.
    If I still have those first ones, would you want them?
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  3. #33
    Absolutely! I didn't know you were running different ones. What did he do that was different? Me, I'll probably just use some JB Weld or something to just glue in the studs.

    Let me know!
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  4. #34
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451
    He used JB Weld.
    I'll go see if I can find them. They've been outside, but under a cover so they should be okay.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  5. #35
    Gary,

    Let me know if you find them and I can run up to your place and get them whenever you say is OK.

    Thanks,

    Roger
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451
    Yeah, I found them, and they still look pretty good. I'll send you a message off-line to arrange a redezvous.
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  7. #37

    Thumbs up

    Gary,

    Thanks for the delivery! Removed the old races and cleaned 'em up all ready to blast them. I'll have my old ones available for the next guy.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  8. #38

    Volvo parts added to the list of parts

    Well, as I mentioned in my other thread I realized as I was cleaning up the front end prepping for my own install there needs be the addition of the splash shields on the back side of these disc conversions. Failure to add these could allow grease from the front ball-joints and such to get on the back side of the rotor -- not good. So I headed out to the Pull-a-Part today and found the perfect shield to use in this setup -- late 70's Volvo front disc shields and bearing shields. All it took was a little trimming of the section where the caliper bolts up at and new holes to match the Falcon and the result is perfection. I'll feel a whole lot better now knowing I can grease my front end and keep any mishap off the rotors. The bearing shield also add the level of security if the wheel seal fails and lets grease leak past it. Here's preliminary pictures, I'll have more tomorrow after the paint dries.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #39
    This is the first I've heard of adding the splash shields. Great idea! I'm looking forward to doing this conversion some day and will look into a pair for sure.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Woodinville, WA
    Posts
    451
    Yeah! Gotta get me a pair of them Volvo shields!
    Gary MacDonald
    ROGER's...
    EX... '63 Hardtop
    Had...
    Scarebird front discs
    200 w/ CI alum head
    C4

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kenmore, WA
    Posts
    254
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    Well, as I mentioned in my other thread I realized as I was cleaning up the front end prepping for my own install there needs be the addition of the splash shields on the back side of these disc conversions. Failure to add these could allow grease from the front ball-joints and such to get on the back side of the rotor -- not good..
    Hmmm. Never thought of this before - I thought the purpose of the shields was to keep water off them. My dropped granada spindles did not allow use the the original shields, and Fatman does not mention any correction for this in the installation instructions.
    Should I be concerned?

    T.
    Thor Johnson
    www.flickr.com/photos/sedanman
    Low & Slow '64 2dr Sedan
    Stock(for now)200 I-6, Lokar shifted C-4, Wedge kit,V-8 coils, dropped granada spindles/discs,GT leaves,3.0 8 inch

  12. #42
    I wouldn't be concerned so much about water. I don't know for sure but I doubt much would keep water off the rotor when you're driving in a rain shower. I thought I sealed up my floor pans after some repairs and water sure has a way to find the leaks.

    Probably more important to have them on to keep rocks and debris (grease included) out of the works.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kenmore, WA
    Posts
    254
    It's been so long since I drove the car in the rain I'm not sure, but I seem to remember getting stuck in an unexpected downpour shortly after I did the swap and the car was pulling to one side, wich it doesen't do in dry braking. Since your floorpans are behind the front wheels they get a pretty good dousing - I can hear it in my car loud and clear as there's no undercoating.

    Sound's like maybe I should be concerned about the grease and debris, although I'm flying too low to do drive on dirt roads (except the drive into Remlinger Farms for pumpkins last fall - now that was interesting!)

    T.
    Thor Johnson
    www.flickr.com/photos/sedanman
    Low & Slow '64 2dr Sedan
    Stock(for now)200 I-6, Lokar shifted C-4, Wedge kit,V-8 coils, dropped granada spindles/discs,GT leaves,3.0 8 inch

  14. #44
    OK, so I finished this up today and took it for a test drive -- love it! It was not without its unseen complications we didn't see on Gary's. First of all the caliper bolts were too long and hit the rotor when I tightened 'em down. The shield does move the caliper bracket towards the rotor all of about 1/16", so I don't think that was the issue. And I'd be curious if Gary went out and had a look how close his bolts were coming to meet with the rotor (you'd have to pull the wheel and look down over the top between the rotor and the caliper mount). I had to cut 2 threads off the bolts. Next was the caliper to wheel clearance. I have the 14" wheels already, but I had to shim out the wheels with almost 1/4" of washers to get the wheel to clear the calipers. That wasn't expected. I'm not a fan of shimming out wheels, but it's not a driver, so I'm going to make a full spacer out of aluminum when I get back to work (unless someone knows where one could get a wheel spacer for 4-lug Falcons). Other than these things it went together nicely.

    As for the shields -- it's more for rocks and grease than for water. Disc brakes are pretty impervious to water since they self sheet the water off since the pads are pretty much in contact with the rotor all the time. Don't be fooled by pulling only being caused by front brake failures only. You can have a rear brake fail to some degree (water/seal/oil/brake fluid) that can cause a pull that feels just like it's coming from the front.

    I'll tell you, these Volvo shields are almost perfect. They're mirrors of each other (meaning they made one shield that was the same for both sides) and the indent in it is perfect for the tie-rod arm of the front spindle. You couldn't have got a better shield -- other than to get one without any holes at all (so ours would be the only ones). There's one hole right next to one of theirs that you have to be care to drill so you don't fall into the other hole while drilling. Clamps and a nice drill-press help. Here's some pics of the final assembly.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  15. #45
    Oh, and by the way... the shields cost be $3.51 for the pair (plus $2.00 admittance fee).
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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