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Thread: Floor pans - Rust

  1. #16
    Once the steel is back in there be sure to properly protect it. You'll need catalyzed (aka 2K) epoxy primer inside and under. Then coat the entire under site with 3M Body Schutz.

    http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...Vs6EVs6E666666--
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Gas line... good point. I'll drop that first thing. The brake line will be easy since I plan on renewing all the lines and brake hoses when I upgrade to dual M/C. I see the front Parking Brake cable is also encroaching in the work area. I have a new one of those too.

  3. #18
    Kenny and I went over to help Jeff with his car today. Here are a few photos of the progress.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #19

    What is the caption contest

    Jeff, Hijacking your thread a little to have some fun. Funniest caption to this photo will get a really cool prize!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    How about: "I didn't know the dipstick was in THERE!"


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  6. #21
    Now THAT'S thinkin' with yer dipstick!

    Oh...I think that's taken...

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mill Creek
    Posts
    1,224

    floor pans - rust

    I can think of quite a few but since this is a family oriented Forum I will go with " Ok, Ok, I'll cut it one more time, but if it's still to short we'll use it like it is!"

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Caption:

    "These replacement floor pans looked bigger in the catalog. That's the last time I order anything that ships out of Hong Kong!"


    Anywho, here are the pictures from this week.
    • Passenger floor prepped and weld-through primer applied.
    • Home made mini-toe-board (1996 Vintage Ford Aerostar sheet metal... kind of like kidneys, best to keep them in the family)
    • Passenger side welded in... mostly. I ran out of gas before finishing the hump.
    • Drivers side nearly prepped.
    Word of caution: We are all aware that it is bad to weld on galvanized metal. Everything I have read and heard up to this week was really stressing the that it is very important to grind off he galvanizing before welding. Leaving the coating on when heating causes gas that is bad for the weld and bad for the human applying the weld.


    I was very careful to grind every last bit of zinc coating off before putting stick to metal.

    After vomiting for three hours straight that night I did some more research. Apparently the GRINDING of galvanized metal also causes "Zinc Shakes" aka "Metal Fume Fever".
    I'm sure you all knew that. Unfortunately I learned it the hard way. That was two days ago and I'm feeling about 90% up to snuff now. I guessed the grinding dust wasn't good stuff to breath, but figured the exposure would be minimal doing it for only 30 minutes, outside with both doors open. Maybe I'm just fragile. At this point, I'm not in a rush to get back at it.


    I know I'm opening myself up to a deserving nickname, but if my embarrassment keeps someone else from getting sick, let the flames start.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #24
    Hey F.J.,

    Nice work! Sorry to hear you got sick though. That's a bummer. Wish I could find a fragment of free time to come out and lend a hand, but I'm booked up solid for at least two more weeks. But you're making really good progress.



    Oh, and I think so far you're the winning caption.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  10. #25
    I can vouch for how sick Jeff has been the last couple of days. Pretty quiet around the office. Funny because I did the same thing on mine and don't recall feeling sick the next day. Maybe the wind was blowing just right. I'll have to ask my dad about this. He was a welder for many years.

    Looking good I'm sure you can find a few other things to do while you recover from the fumes and are ready to finish welding.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I was able to rebuild my heater box (complete with new heater core) while I recovered. Some fresh paint on the doors and motor, new foam throughout, and a few new clips (I think I have 11 now... those guys are almost $4 each!).

    The replacement heater core is 2" thick rather than the stock 2-1/2". I used Kenny's trick of "Frost-King" weather-strip to make up the difference. The old heater core looked great but I don't want to chance an anti-freeze stain on my new Palamino carpet.

    I disassembled the blower motor to clean and oil both bushings. Even after 45 years the brushes still look like new... I guess you don't need the heater much in Sacramento.

  12. #27
    Nice work.

    Let me know if I need to take the tank for a refill. It came from Central Welding in Ballard.

    You bought the wrong heater core. The 2.5" version is available from Falcon Enterprises.

    You need to ware a filtered mask when painting or welding galvanized metal. Of course a fresh air ventalation system is the best. I know that Eliot uses only a filtered mask.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Hi Pat, I'm going to take the tank in and get it filled next week. There is a Central Welding near work, I'm guessing they will exchange it for me.

    I knew the heater core was 1/2" too thin, but it was $20 less expensive and I had some of the weatherstrip laying around (free).

    You can be sure I'm be wearing my cartridge respirator next time I'm grinding.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    Jeff, Hijacking your thread a little to have some fun. Funniest caption to this photo will get a really cool prize!
    "Why yes Igor, I belive that this syringe IS the proper length ! bwah, bwah, bwahahaha !"
    Jonathon Hass
    Stanwood, WA.
    '68 Falcon Sports Coupe

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff W View Post
    Hi Pat, I'm going to take the tank in and get it filled next week. There is a Central Welding near work, I'm guessing they will exchange it for me.
    That is an Argon/CO2 mix BTW. They will probably just swap tanks.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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