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Thread: Seam Sealer

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Seam Sealer

    The car is back from the paint shop and I am happy with the results. There are just a few spots where the attention to detail is less than what I would have done, but for the price I am extremely happy.

    The paint is glass smooth, Block sanding handled the ripples. Old paint was removed. Doors were removed for proper jamming. All in all a very nice driver.

    Due to communication issue, the roof gutter does not have any seam sealer. The old sealer was cleaned out and it is painted in there. The painter said his paint and clear coat is enough to keep that seam dry... I don't buy it and would like some sort of flexible sealer that doesn't look like hell.

    What is the advice on a post-paint solution for this?

  2. #2
    I would get an automotive urethane seam sealer, go to Harbor freight and buy a $10 air brush, get some of the paint from your body man and then paint the urethane sealer after it cures.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dick. After reading your tech articles, I really respect your advice. Your are a smart cookie.

    I think I'll use the urethane seam sealer you recommend then bring it back to the paint shop and have them shoot it. They used a two step base/clear... I think that's more than I want to get into with my airbrush.

    Too bad it a wagon, that's a long drip rail to address. I'm a bit nervous about getting a nice bead. Since getting my car back I am obsessed with drip rails. Every old car I look at on the street has seam sealer that is lumpy, missing, chunky, too thick or otherwise has the appearance of amateur application. Any tricks you can offer?
    Last edited by Jeff W; December 24th, 2010 at 11:47 AM.

  4. #4
    Urethanes can be smoothed with a wet finger, take your time and it will look like glass. I use a spray bottle with dish detergent and water and mist the sealant as I go.

    I am glad you enjoy my tech stuff. I have a lot of fun doing it. Now that my ranchero is done, I don't have much to write about. I do have a back log of stuff that has not been published as yet.

  5. #5
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    I'll use your method. Thanks agian.

    I look forward to your future articles.

  6. #6
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    Dick, would you scotch brite the channel first or just apply over the fresh gloss?

  7. #7
    No Scotch Brite necessary, urethane will stick to new paint very well.

  8. #8
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    Here are some shots of the drip rails sans sealer. I see 3M makes a clear, paintable seamer with a heavy body. I am really tempted to ease some of that in there and just keep it to the outside edge.

    3M™ Ultrapro™ Autobody Sealant, 08302, Clear, 5 oz tube

    I know it's a shortcut and not the correct way... but I have so much to do on this car, a shortcut would be welcome.

    Have antone ever used that product?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
    I can not think of anything bad coming from the attempt, at worst you may end up having to piant it if you do not like how it looks. Be sure you cover the seam between the drip rail and the roof panel.

  10. #10
    Jeff,

    You have to make sure it doesn't shrink. There is an official drip-rail product you can get. Larry lamented over how many attempts it took him to get it looking right.

    Considering your wagon will not be like mine (a sunny day only wagon) and will have standing water here -- what you use should not be chosen lightly. I would get the right stuff -- whatever the heck the name of the stuff is.

    Larry - if you're reading this - what's that stuff called? Jeff, you may want to browse Larry's thread(s) too, since he mentions this process and probably the product name too. Have you asked Wesco?.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  11. #11
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    I ordered two tubes of the clear 3m sealer. It says non-shrinking. I'll post results when it warms up enough to apply.

  12. #12
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    Seam Sealer

    This is a copy of the post comment I gave back when. It was indeed a huge issue and it took many many hours to do my car 3 times before I got it right.

    Ok, got it done and it looks good. Jeff, I used 3M Automix Self Leveling Seam Sealer and it flows very good. Too good, as a matter of fact, on the sloping portion of the rail. But it is 100% better than before. I used one tube for both sides so you will probably need two tubes for both of your longer rails. I bought the stuff at WESCO and they let me borrow their gun. I go to the one in Everett. Larry

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the advice Larry. I'm going to try the clear first as this is post paint. If I'm not satisfied, I'll try again and paint selectively.

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