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Old 01-04-2011, 11:27 PM
Jeff W's Avatar
Jeff W Jeff W is online now
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Wagon build

Here is the wagon fresh back from the paint shop and home in the $175 Harbor Freight garage.

It's pretty small but when the sun is out it is easy to roll up the side tarp and go to it.

oh.. the 2 x 12s are using the weight of the car to hold down the tent. You are supposed to stake or bolt it down to the ground so it doesn't end up in your neighbors yard. I thought it was a good temporary solution and helps my wife believe it will be taken down someday... a hard sell if I'm out there with the rotohammer and concrete bolts.
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Last edited by Jeff W; 01-04-2011 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 01-05-2011, 09:43 AM
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Looks great Jeff. i hope mine gets to that stage some day..... Send me pics of those parts you need, or just stop by for a visit... By the way if you go back to when I first posted on Sedan delivery pics, it has a good shot of the roof rack on my car. I will get som closer measurements tonight if I don't forget....
Keep up the great work it is keeping me inspired right now.... Body work sucks...
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Old 01-05-2011, 06:59 PM
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Very nice Jeff. And the wagon looks pretty good too.
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63 "Flarechero"
powered by: '65 289-V8 | T5 | 8" TracLoc rear
63.5 Hardtop (previously MacDee's "Freddie")
powered by: Classic Inlines 200-6 | C4 | 7.25 rear


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Old 01-05-2011, 11:15 PM
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It looks even shinier up close!
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`62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:18 PM
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Kenny says, "Do one thing a day".

Lao Tzo said "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step".

Here are my "steps" last week:

1) Rebuilt both vent windows: Fifty years of California Sun can really do a number on those rubber seals. It's hard to believe that all those black chunks of ceramic looking material next to the bare window frame used to be pliable. It was quite a chore getting it removed from the frame.

2) Install the new hood to cowl seal and align the hood.

3) Strip the dash naked in preparation for paint. Whomever installed the Instrument Cluster at the factory must have been amazingly flexible. To remove one of the screws that hold a wire harness bracket I had my arm stuck through the speaker hole in the top of the dash. There was a moment of panic when I couldn't easily remove my arm from the hole... I had a flash of the recent movie where the lone hiker wedged his arm between two rocks and used his leatherman to amputate. I am not looking forward to the reinstallation.

4) Mount primary hood latch. I am pleased the painter did a nice job cleaning and spraying the underside of the hood. It was pretty rough when I brought it in.
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Last edited by Jeff W; 03-02-2013 at 10:42 AM.
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Old 01-08-2011, 08:21 PM
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Tomorrow's project: machine the division bars. These mount behind the vent windows and provide a fuzzy channel for the door glass to ride in. I chose the less expensive generic bars so I need to make the two on the left look like the two on the right.

Easy to do with a Bridgeport Mill. Not so easy with a hand held Dremmel. Guess which method I'm stuck with.
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Old 01-31-2011, 10:34 PM
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Roger's request to post more fabrication pictures.

After several months of disappointing Pull-A-part searching, I bought the Jaguar Gas Cap on Ebay for about $22 with shipping.

The "Cup" assembly was also bought off of an Ebay vendor but not from an auction. I searched around for a vendor selling a cap where the photos were taken with the cap still mounted on a car (junk yard obviously). Just emailed the seller asking if they would be willing to cut the well from the fender and how much. It was $40 including shipping. I asked for about a 1" lip of the old fender.

Kenny and I did two things to this "cup assembly" before cutting the fender to weld.
1) The cup assembly is basically a "turned up" well that is spot welded to the "turned down" lip of the fender. Some careful grinding separated the spot welds that held the two together. We just used the inner cup portion.

2) Moved the drain nipple. As you can imagine, this thing would fill up with rain water. The old mounting position on the Jaguar was level, now that it is slightly slanted, the old drain nipple had to be moved to the lowest point of the well. Cut off and fill the old hole, weld nipple in new position, drill hole through the middle. I'll just stick a length of rubber hose to exit the the water.

Here are the only other pictures I took other than the items in the other post.

I have not connected the new filler to the tank yet. The Jaguar cap is 2-1/2" hose - I'll get a length then bring it to a muffler shop and have them bend the gentle "S" to make the connection. Let you know how it goes.
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Old 02-01-2011, 07:35 PM
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Thanks Jeff-

I bought one of these too, but can try to see if one of the dealers on ebay will hack out that piece. My guess is I'll end up fab'ing my own. And with my driveways being so steep, the original spot for the drain may be best all the way in the back for 90% of it's life.

Did you get a key with yours?
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63 "Flarechero"
powered by: '65 289-V8 | T5 | 8" TracLoc rear
63.5 Hardtop (previously MacDee's "Freddie")
powered by: Classic Inlines 200-6 | C4 | 7.25 rear


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Old 02-01-2011, 08:43 PM
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Yes, my cap came with a working key. You don't need to have the key to open and close, just to lock when it is already in the closed position.

If I was going to fab my own, I would make it slightly deeper that the original. You are welcome to come over after work and check it out in person. I wish Pull-A-Part had an online list of cars on the lot - you could just keep checking until one appears in the inventory. I can't imagine there is a big demand for this well.

Is this for your Ranchero or are you cutting into the wagon?

Last edited by Jeff W; 02-01-2011 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:21 PM
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It would be for the Ranchero. This will be driven more than my wagon - and I hate filling up the wagon... but rarely do. I'm going to be hacking and welding - so may as well improve this area... while I'm at it. Ahh! There's those words again!
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Roger Moore

63 "Flarechero"
powered by: '65 289-V8 | T5 | 8" TracLoc rear
63.5 Hardtop (previously MacDee's "Freddie")
powered by: Classic Inlines 200-6 | C4 | 7.25 rear


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Old 02-01-2011, 10:24 PM
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Remember; Ford owned Jaguar from 1989 - 2008 so you are installing an OEM part there.

OH, there was a little nipple on the neck of the Jaguar Cap... probably for some kind of Emissions Canister. I used a torch to heat and pull it right out. Used epoxy and a perfectly sized solid rivet to drive in the hole.

Last edited by Jeff W; 02-01-2011 at 10:32 PM.
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2011, 05:45 PM
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Wind-lace

Home-made wind lace and ceiling insulation.

I cleaned up the headliner bows in preparation for the intimidating job of installation. Boy that is a long roof.
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  #13  
Old 02-07-2011, 09:39 AM
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If I knew that badge was turning out so well I would have charged more for it?? Glad to see the parts are going to good use.
I think Kenny has your bag of parts from this weekend I hope I got all the stuff you wanted.
The car is looking awesome. I am sure I wll be calling on you when I put mine back together.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:18 PM
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Nice progress Jeff. Lots of great tips too! But that reminds me...

Hey Steve, one thing I was going to look at on that wagon was to drill out the screw heads to pull the door handles off that car and to see if the door locks had the flappers on them. Would be worth pulling those off -- they looked pretty good. Also was going to get the right-rear arm rest off and space that out too. And... and...
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Roger Moore

63 "Flarechero"
powered by: '65 289-V8 | T5 | 8" TracLoc rear
63.5 Hardtop (previously MacDee's "Freddie")
powered by: Classic Inlines 200-6 | C4 | 7.25 rear


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Old 02-08-2011, 09:19 AM
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I will add them to the list. I found a couple other things I need still as well. I think it might be another weekend or two before I haul away the carcasses.
Anybody else let me know and I will check the car's ?? before they become BMW's. Thanks Steve..

P.S. I have mentioned about body work right???
P.S.S. Sawzalls are fun !!!!
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