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Thread: Adding seatbelts

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Seat belts - revisited:

    I received my belts and was very happy with the quality and the price.

    I ended up buying from :

    http://www.seatbeltpros.com/

    I brought one of the shoulder belts to the meeting tonight so everyone could get an eye-full. I bought the 140" retractable, chrome lift buckle mounted to the 25" adjustable floppy with bolt in end fitting.

    With the optional hardware kit and one "mounting plate" each set set-up was $74...

    the single lap belt for the poor passenger that has to sit between my two girls was $17.00

    Now to borrow the welding machine and get 'er done.

  2. #17
    We should add that link to the "General Vendors" section of the "Resources" page. Always nice to add a new source with a good recommendation. Can you do that Pat?

    I'll see how they look in the wagon and should probably do my front seats someday. If I can do it without screwing up the paint.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
    Can you do that Pat?
    I'll do that.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I cut and fit the shoulder receiver hardware into the B and C pillars. Roger has offered (maybe he was drunk) to weld them in. I think he said he not only wanted to help me out but was curious to see how much damage it did to the body paint and possibly do the same on his. With Roger and my hectic schedules - we just gotta see when we are both free.


    I'll post some pictures after I find my camera so Roger can give me any "prep" advice to minimize the time he has to spend monkeying around.


    I also fished the lower hardware receiver for the retractor, through the rocker to a 1/2" hole I drilled for the bolt... that was fun. Picture attached
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jeff W; March 24th, 2010 at 11:43 PM. Reason: added picture

  5. #20
    Roger has offered (maybe he was drunk) to weld them in.
    Nope, was sober and in my right mind at the time. May not be right now, but I'm sure I was then.

    What? Can you speak up? I can't hear you. Oh... No... thank you though, I don't do that stuff anymore. No, really, I'm clean, and have been for almost 30 years.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Pictures of the anchors ready to weld in the B and C pillars -

    I know there are many armchair engineers that will start the flame mail about strength of these pillars, shear force... blah and more blah. I've been looking, thinking, researching and planning around this for two years now. I've looked at all the aftermarket installation sites, inspected new cars in junk yards and talked to a bunch of smart people. I feel this is the right choice for me in my casual driver.

    That said, do your own research and decide what you are comfortable with before installing anchor points in your B and C pillars.

    When this is done only 326 more items to check off
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
    Those should be a breeze to weld up Jeff. Nothing much needed there to prep. probably have you hold a wet towel outside to minimize heat transfer.

    Are you going to leave the bottoms as-is, or do you want to weld those in too?

    I seriously doubt once these are welded in there, those pillars will hold you in just fine Jeff.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    The bottoms are inside the rocker panels and held in place with tapped holes and screws. No welding required.

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