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Thread: 62 starting problem and need help please!

  1. #16
    Thanks everyone,

    So... finally I think I have an answer. As I now could get the car started I took it up to Acme on Aurora to have them check out the generator among other stuff. They determined that the generator was fine, but as Roger suggested, the voltage regulator was shot. So that is being replaced as we "speak" and then it should be good to go and just in time for the W. Seattle show. Whew...

    So now on to the master cylinder... seriously, if the next Rainier Falcon clinic/barbeque wants to be at my house I'll gladly supply all the fixin's. With all the horror stories about not replacing it, I won't be truly comfortable driving it until I get this taken care of.

    Thank you everyone for your kind advice!!

    Jim

  2. #17
    Roger was right AGAIN!

    I do hates the electrical problems but am glad you got it figured out. Now to get the dual master cylinder installed. Jon (68falconsc) has kindly offered to come help and take pictures/notes. Gather the parts and let us know when you're ready. There's not much time before the regionals so maybe we can get it done before then but afterwards for sure.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  3. #18
    Just say the word on a date and I'll be there {as long as it's a sat or sun} and.....DID THAT GUY SAY BBQ ??????? DEFINATELY up for THAT !!!!!!!!! LOL.
    Jonathon Hass
    Stanwood, WA.
    '68 Falcon Sports Coupe

  4. #19
    I should probably add this to the master cylinder thread but I'll ask here as this is where I initially started...

    I have the master cylinder ('67 Mustang) from Schucks and I went to NAPA to get the rest of the parts from that Comet article linked from the other discussion. The guy at NAPA I asked was confused from the list and truth be told I sort of was too. Could someone outline exactly what parts I need for my 62? I know there are only like 6 things but I just want to be sure.

    Also they had a cylinder at NAPA that looked better than the all black model at Schuck's. It had the copper lids that looked more like the original Falcon top but it was $69. Are there only cosmetic differences between the two as the Schuck's model was $40?

    Thanks for your help, and once I'm sure what I need I'll get these this week.

    Jim

  5. #20
    Basically you're taking one line that is coming out of your now single cylinder and splitting it in two. The rear brakes (fed by the front bowl on the dual) is split by a junction block on the rear differential. So you will need to get one junction to run a new short line from the rear bowl (for the front brakes) and split it to the left and right front brakes. If you want to still use your hydraulic brake light switch you'll have to find the special junction that has the female pipe thread on top for this switch. I got mine at a really good parts store in Santa Rosa, CA but I think you may have to go to Fittings, Inc. to get one around here. I doubt any parts stores will have them.

    You may need an adapter for the rear port as it is larger if I remember. I'm not sure why they did that but there's a fitting available here that would make a neater install:

    http://www.ultrastang.com/Page.asp?PageID=4

    I'm terrible with sizes so I'm not sure which one you'll need. Anyone know or sure?? I think it's the 1/2"-20. The other port is the size for the fitting that will come on the 3/16" brake line you'll need to get anyway.

    They should have the short brake lines with the fittings though. I would put the switch down by the brake pedal. It's a Standard Brand Part Number: SLS66 for a 70's Ford pickup. As far as the difference in price and quality goes, hard to tell. I would say the one you have is fine. If they both are remanufactured and have the same warranty then only time will tell. Are they different brands?

    Jeff has done one most recently and here in Seattle so maybe he can tell you about local parts sources. It's kinda confusing I know. We should put together a kit as a club and sell it on our website to make money. Probably too much liability though...

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  6. #21
    I have a big bag of brake fittings. You can go through it and see if you can use any. I'm in Ballard.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  7. #22
    I've got a bunch of stuff too. I may even have that special tee connection if you want to keep your hydraulic brake light switch. And extra brake line too. Between me and Pat I'm sure we can make it work.


    It's not really that confusing and once you see it done the light bulb will come on and you'll say "Now I get it!"

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
    Roger was right AGAIN!
    If you have a big enough shotgun, you're bound to hit something.

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #24
    I've got a few extra pieces leftover from when I did C&A's car, but where they are in my current mess is the question.

    Be sure to post when you all plan to do this and I'll try to stop by and supervise.

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  10. #25
    Hi All,

    Below is the parts list from the Comet article linked on the master cylindar web site. Does this look right? The NAPA store I went to had problems finding the right fittings based on this list. Patrick I live in Ballard too, maybe I could stop by for a few moments next weekend and look at the fitting you have, is that possible? Finally, after talking with Kenny hopefully we can do this project in late August, maybe 8/23...

    Thanks!!!!!

    Parts Required: (prices are based upon a visit to my local NAPA store 7-31-06)


    1967 Mustang Duel Bowl Manual Master Cylinder for front and rear drum brakes
    (remanufactured). Note: This conversion will not work with a stock power brake
    booster. $19.95
    Core Charge $9.25


    Brass Brake Line Tee Fitting (1960-66) $2.99


    Brass Brake Line Tee Fitting w/1/8” female pipe thread (1960-64 only) $5.69


    8” - 3/16” Brake lines with fittings on each end (1960-66) $1.99


    8” - 3/16” Brake lines with fittings on each end (1960-64 only) $1.99


    1 Quart of Type 3 Brake Fluid $3.87


    Master cylinder brake bleeding kit. $1.00
    Optional Parts:


    (might as well replace them well it is apart)


    Brake Light Switch $10.99

  11. #26
    You forgot one thing:

    Being able to stop if one line breaks: Priceless!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by jedijim View Post
    Patrick I live in Ballard too, maybe I could stop by for a few moments next weekend and look at the fitting you have, is that possible?
    I'll be out of town for the next two weekends. I would be available on weekday evenings this week and the start of next.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  13. #28
    Thanks Patrick!

    I have a commitment at 6P every evening for the next two weeks, but is it possible to come by between 5 and 6 any day before you leave? I'm not sure what time you get home from work but if this won't work that's fine too, we can just try to get together when you return.

    Thanks so much for your assitance!

    Jim

  14. #29
    I would go back to Schuck's taking your MC with you and ask them for a short piece of metal brake line 3/16 with standard flares and standard fittings..
    With those two items ask them if you can go through their Dorman brass fitting bins looking for the fitting you need..

    You will need on inverted flared brass tee 3/16x3/16x3/16
    You will also need as many as 3 adapters depending on the MC's threaded ports.. I think that Cardone drills and taps them if the threads are damaged as i've seen 3 identicle parts have different sizes..

    Hence the reason you brought your master..

    If you want to get really tricky and reduce an adapter ask them for a conversion brakeline they shoud have them.. it will have a 3/16 on one end and 1/2 or 9/16 fitting on the other end... depeds on the piece you need.

    Nathan

  15. #30

    Hi Patrick

    So I'm gearing up to do this master cylinder job and I'm wondering if there is any time I could come over and look through your box of brake fittings? I can meet whenever it's convenient for you. Thank you so much for your kind offer!

    Jim

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