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Thread: Disintegrated Strut Bushings

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  1. #1

    Disintegrated Strut Bushings

    Well, gee.

    I had the front end re-built this past August, including new strut rod bushings.

    I just noticed that those new strut rod bushings are all squished in and disintegrated.

    (Right)
    1-DCP_0031.jpg

    (Left)
    2-DCP_0032.jpg

    What would have caused this? Were they over-tightened or under tightened?
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  2. #2
    I'm not sure what the other cupped washer looks like but the illustration that came with mine have them cupping outward, not inward although you wouldn't think so.

    And there should be a metal tube between the two washers that the strut goes through. It prevents the bushings from being compressed too much. One other option is poly bushings. I've heard a lot of complaints about how bad the rubber parts are from some importers these days.


    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  3. #3

    Blown Bushings

    Hello, Kenny.

    Thanks for the photo. I stuck my camera underneath and just took this photo of the left bushing looking from underneath. The front bushing is squished and the bushing behind it is split.

    Left from below.jpg

    I can't understand how that would happen. The parts came from FalconParts.com and appeared to be new.

    I checked at the local parts store and replacement bushings would cost $32. I just ordered a set of "poly graphite" bushings on-line from Performance Suspension Technology (PST) at http://www.p-s-t.com/ for $28, shipping included. I'll see how they hold up.

    POLYSBK-gen.jpg

    “Zero-deflection, ultimate handling Graphite impregnated - no squeaks!” “One of the primary problem areas in classic musclecar suspensions is the use of rubber bushings. They were cheap to manufacture for mass production and provided isolation from road noise and vibration, but rubber has a significant tradeoff – its relatively soft durometer (hardness) allows for significant deflection of the chassis components under load. The rubber bushings twist and deform as the suspension components rotate, causing premature wear and unpredictable handling. Rubber eventually dry rots when exposed to the elements and degrades in the presence of grease and oil. PST perfected polyurethane with the introduction of POLYGRAPHITE® - a special formula incorporating a low-friction graphite lubricant into the actual bushing material. With POLYGRAPHITE®, you get the near-zero deflection performance of polyurethane with a self-lubricating bushing. As an added benefit, POLYGRAPHITE® is impervious to grease, oil, weather, and other natural elements and will never dry rot.”
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Dennis, when I saw the foto of your bushings, I got an idea why yours are cut and disintegrating (but this is purely speculation, not knowledge). I had the impression that the washers may be the culprit due to the (comparatively) sharp edge of the washer against the bushing. On top of that, I thought my washers were installed as yours are. I was wrong, and my washers are installed as Kenny pictured. Mine have been installed for a couple of years, but I'm sure I don't have near the mileage on mine as you. I bet with the new bushings you ordered and installing the washers as Kenny suggests, your problem will be gone. Here is mine:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by SmithKid; December 14th, 2014 at 04:13 PM.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    Kenny, the diagram you posted shows the front cup washer installed as Dennis' was (opposite of Gene;s), the cup towards the rubber bush. The rear washer is installed cup away...

    I don't know what is correct but you guys need to figure it out before I do mine in the spring

    Here is a link to the diagram Kenny uploaded:

    http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums...6&d=1395203618

    http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums...=strut+bushing

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Dennis as smashed as those are did you have the steel sleeve inside the bushings? I think the washer may have some effect on it but if that sleeve is not there you will definitely get what I see in the pics.
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mill Creek
    Posts
    1,224

    Disintegrated Strut Bushings

    I don't have those parts anymore since I have the mustang ll suspension but I thought I remembered the washers with the concave side against the rubber bushings. I checked my old pictures before I took the car apart and I checked the "1964 Falcon/Comet" book I have and that is the way they also show them. I think the nuts were just tightened too much, but pretty hard to be sure if that's the cause. Soooo it looks to me like you had the washers on the right way. Larry
    Larry Smith
    1964 Futura
    347 stroker



  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Dennis, the poly bushings are too firm for the stock arms and there have been several cases of the arm breaking due to lack of movement. Those arms have to move up and down with your suspension so for your car I would stick with rubber. I'm looking in to the adjustable ones just for better alignment issues, but my car has been lowered so it causes more issues when it comes to alignment.
    I think there is a good web site with info on the ploy vs rubber I think it is car daze.com. Check that out.
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by doghows View Post
    Dennis, the poly bushings are too firm for the stock arms and there have been several cases of the arm breaking due to lack of movement. Those arms have to move up and down with your suspension so for your car I would stick with rubber.
    Hello, Steve.

    You convinced me. I ordered another original-type 1962-1963 strut rod bushing kit C2DZ-3A187-A from FalconParts.com.

    Strut Bushing Kit.jpg

    Thanks, Dennis.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Glad the information helped with your decision. Just make sure to use the sleeves this time lol! Besides we need you to keep your car on the road, especially this time of year when we can't get ours out too much. We need your trips to keep us going through the winter.
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  11. #11
    Having installed about 6 sets of these in 3 years they are not all created equal. I've seen 3 different types so far and some have the sleeves and some do not. But the sleeves are there, when included, to stop you from crushing the bushings. I noted elsewhere that NOS rubber parts don't seem to survive being put into service. Not sure if these were, but may have been old stock. They seem to be crumbling as well.

    As Steve said these are supposed to move up and down. The washers are curved outward to allow the bushing this movement. If you either overtighten the nuts (no sleeve) or use too stiff a bushing (poly) the control arms can't easily raise and lower.

    I know Jay Baker had two sets of the adjustable control arms for sale at our past 3 swap meet appearances. They were not (are not) cheap. For a driver, probably not needed. He proposed bringing them to the mini-regional, but not sure if he did or not.

    Also, the adjustment of strut rods are very elusive. I have never found anything to indicate where those nuts should be placed. I can only guess that these are are adjusted if wheel caster can't be adjusted correctly using shims on the upper control arm. I would think that with the car weight on the front end, these should be adjusted neutral. You can effectively pull the lower control arm fore and aft this way - though I can't imagine wanting to do so very much. It is a fixed length and as the control arms go up and down it has to affect caster some. Some cars, I've seen, don't have the rear-ward nuts and have a positive stop on the back side. These could never be used as an adjustable part.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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