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Thread: Floor pans

  1. #1

    Floor pans

    Well im finally getting off by arse and putting in more work on the wagon..

    I have a friend that has a metal brake and bead rollers and other metal working tools.

    So i thought I'd try to make my own replacement floor pans.

    But i can't remeber what gauge or thickness the floor pan metal is..

    Anyone have any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Nathan
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  2. #2
    Looks like the replacement stuff is 18 gauge
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    My replacements from C2C were 18 gauge. I don't know what factory would have been.

    Seems fine to me. Easy to massage to fit and I didn't burn any holes during the welding process.

    Certainly easier to fab than 16 gauge. Send pictures.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  4. #4
    Of course, thicker might mean gooder considering it's a uni-body and all, and it will take longer to rust through too!



    But 18 gauge will be easier to work into shape by hand, for sure. I'm not sure what they're providing in today's repop is what was used originally. To me, most panels I've installed seemed to be thinner than what was originally used. That might simply be because the presses Ford had to stamp them out were massive and could handle stamping out an entire floor in one shot. Maybe pop out a rubber plug in a section of good floor and mic a section of it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #5
    Well im thinking of using 18 gauge like c2c
    I've used c2c pans before and they were alright.
    I believe they were hand bent as mine had hand scribed marks where the bends were.

    Figure this will give me an opportunity to learn something new.

    Anyone see a problem making the front pan and toe board 1 piece?
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  6. #6
    The driver side is just the small hole so I'll just cut out the bad and patch it. As of right now it looks to be a 4"x4" area.

    The toe board on the passenger side is full of small holes. Figure it will be quicker to cut out most of it.
    Looks like the cut will be made just under the ribs going up the firewall.

    The passenger pan is the biggest rusted out area, and i bet i could just cut out a 12"x24" strip and fix all by troubles.

    I might just do that too. Not sure yet.. planning on a full front pan for now..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  7. #7
    Keep cutting until you get to nice shiny solid steel. Small patches are fine. But at some point, you may look at the size hole and realize that the whole thing needs to go.

    It's an opportunity to POR the inside of the front frame rails if you do full pans.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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