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  1. #1

    converting to dual master cylinder questions

    Hi all. Has anyone here ever switched from a single bowl master cylinder to a dual master cylinder? (I tried the search feature above, but didn't find any previous threads with specific info.) I found a tech article at CJ Pony Parts on doing this switch on an early Mustang, but I still have a question I thought someone here might be able to help me with. It looks to me like the brake light circuit is attached directly to the "nose" (or front) of the master cylinder on my 60 Comet (manual drum brakes). A 67 dual master cylinder is not going to have a place for me to hook that up, is it? Therefore, wouldn't I need to fabricate a new stop light switch to attach to the pedal arm somehow? If anyone here has encountered this kind of situation already, I would be very grateful for your insight and experience.
    1960 Comet
    1967 Cougar XR7
    www.lattemom.typepad.com/cougar

  2. #2
    You can plumb the pressure switch to a brass T-fitting.

    A better solution would be to buy a Ford truck brake light switch that mounts under the dash. It's an easy project. Look under your dash at the brake pedal pivot point. You'll see a rubber bumper that is used when you let up on the brake. Remove that bumper and attach the brake light switch to that location. Extend the two wires from the engine bay to under the dash and hook them to the switch.

    http://www.partsamerica.com/productd...pe=422&PTSet=A

    This switch is a normaly closed unit.

    As for the master cylinder - make sure you get a drum/drum version or a disk/drum depending on what brakes your car has. If you are keeping the drums, then get the drum/drum version.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3

    Thanks!

    Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.
    1960 Comet
    1967 Cougar XR7
    www.lattemom.typepad.com/cougar

  4. #4
    Go for the switch on the pedal if you can. It's really easy and I hear they are way less prone to fail on you as the hydraulic switch is. I installed one. Plus there are 3 less places on the brake line for leaks to occur.

    Thought I had photos of mine but can't find them.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I used the brass T-Fitting and it has worked well. The dual master cylinder is a great upgrade. One of the FCA newsletter last year had an article on the conversion. The whole job would cost much lass than $100 if you limit it to the bare necessities. I replaced all four wheel cylinders, shoes, two drums, hardware and made all new brake lines. It was probably around $300 and about 6 hours work. Let me know how I can help with pictures or advice. Jeff

  6. #6

    Update:

    I put in my dual resevoir master cylinder yesterday, and also switched over to the brake light switch under the dash, and everything seems to be working great. Thanks a bunch to ya'll for your help and expertise. It is great to have a forum like this to get ideas and suggestions before tackling a project.
    1960 Comet
    1967 Cougar XR7
    www.lattemom.typepad.com/cougar

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