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Thread: New project wireing problem

  1. #1

    New project wireing problem

    Sold my 65 Ranchero paid some bills and bought a junkyard 63 Econoline pickup it has a stock 140 or 170 cuin engine (I haven't look it up yet) it drove 3 years ago (maybe) problem is no spark I have a new stock coil, points cap, rotor and condenser and new battery. No generator, soon to be replaced with a alternator. Right now I put 12.76 v0lts to plus side of coil there is a small voltage drop on the minus side and the points are getting 12 plus volts but no spark at the plugs, points are gapped and are working. The only thing I can think of is the new condenser isn't working can you think of anything else it could be.

    Also I have some questions about the Carb, there is a connection I don't remember on my Ranchero (200) six I think it is a breather, on the top drivers side of engine a hose goes to passengers side of the carburetor (not the water connection under the carb) the engine side is missing the flange on the hose to bolt it to the engine. can I just plug the carb end of the hose.
    Also there is no hose hooking up the water connection, I always heard the colder the fuel was the denser it is and more horsepower (cold boxes on old drag cars) so I was going to leave it off.
    Carb appears to be on last legs so if anyone has a good one getting ready to go to scrapper and is in driving distance of Tacoma/Eatonville . . . .

    But right now I have to get the spark problem figured out.
    Olgraybeard


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    Check that condenser, that was the problem with mine. Sometimes them new parts don't work.
    The water hose that runs to the carb plate is not critical, I think it was there to help with engine warm up?
    The other hose sounds like the PCV hook up, you need that to keep you crank case pressure down. I ran with out one and it blew oil out the dip stick tube.
    Love the truck I just picked up a 62 Van that I have been working on and just went through the same stuff on it. Keep us posted... Here is a pic of the engine hope it helps with the hoses.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by doghows; September 28th, 2012 at 08:00 AM.

  3. #3
    Worked a couple hours this afternoon found out when previous owner put new battery clamps on he got them switched, i didn't notice because stock cables are both black and most of the electrical was working. I don't know if it damage the new condensor, but I replaced it. but still no spark. Just before I stopped I noticed a small ground wire on mounting screw of points I'll check tomorrow if it is broken. Points aren't sparking but there is power to them so maybe that's the problem.
    Olgraybeard


  4. #4
    A stock engine with a generator will work fine with the battery leads reversed. Even the gauges and all the normal electrical will work fine. The radio will not operate on a positive ground.

    You need to re-polarize the generator and reverse the battery leads.

    The points should have a wire coming off them that exits the dizzy housing and goes to the negative side of the coil. I'm sure the condenser is fine.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  5. #5
    The wire coming from negative side of coil to points/condenser was just hanging on by a couple of strands so I was getting a reading but not much current was getting through. After I fixed that the engine fired right up and even idles good. Generator is long gone just running off battery till I get the Mazda alternator put on.
    Olgraybeard


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
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    2,117
    Congrats it is always cool when a plan comes together. I just got the new clutch in my van so I had a good weekend as well.

  7. #7
    dowhows your hoses are simalar except I don't have a PCV hose/valve that hose on mine goe to the engine breather on the left side front of engine and I have one more hose that has me stumped on drivers side of carb. it plugs in at the front top of carb and you can see in the carb casting where the passage goes up to the top of the throat of the carb and ends at a slash cut tube at the throat of the carb. can't firgure what it is or what is supposed to plug into it. If you don't follow what I'm saying I'll post a picture tomorrow.

    Anyone have a wiring diagram of the ignition switch (the color codes)
    Olgraybeard


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
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    2,117
    I think the hose you are describing might be a overflow for the carb? I have seen some of these early carbs start to push fuel through that slash cut piece and flood out the engine. But again a picture is definitely worth a thousand words. (I think I heard that before??)
    Anyway I will look for that pic and see if we are thinking of the same hose. I think my Van is going to be my daily driver starting tomorrow. Will see what else falls off. Good Luck...

  9. #9
    Here is a couple of pics

    Olgraybeard


  10. #10
    Looks like it may have been a smog motor from the later 60's. The log (intake log) shows C8 if I read right. It may have come up from California and they had a lot of smog things I dealt with when I used to live there.

    This hose goes directly to the bowl vent, where here (in WA) we vented directly to the atmosphere, but elsewhere may have wanted it to go to a charcoal canister or similar.

    You probably should leave it un-corked, because without the venting system used on the other carbs, if you corked this you would create a suction in the bowl and probably starve for fuel under heavy load. Typical venting closed this port at idle and opened it at off-idle.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  11. #11
    Did a little more searching on this and it appears this should be plugged if not going to a canister or something (verdict still out what it actually did go to). It will still vent through the snorkel and carbs missing the venting rod and mechanism were plugged at the top of the carb. I recall now on my Autolite 1100 rebuild thread that this was plugged.

    Bottom-line is that if you had a float failure, gas could just pour from this line all over the exhaust manifold. Not a good thing.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  12. #12
    I got the new to me gas tank installed today. Also new exhaust/ muffler. Found out I have a cracked Exhaust manifold and according to warrenty plate this is a 144 engine, but I have to verify that. Doesn't the 144 only have 3 freeze plugs. Anyone have a extra Exhaust manifold kicking around? I noticed the pitman arm is only 1/2 on the steering box shaft and no pinch bolt, I'm hoping the steering box shaft is threaded to drive the arm on.
    Olgraybeard


  13. #13
    Does your manifold have a area for a donut seal or is it for a flat gasket where the exhaust pipe bolts up. I have one for a 63 that uses the donut style. Let me know if you can use it. Dave

  14. #14
    I'll take another look at it this morning when it warms up a bit, but I'm pretty sure its a donut seal, I was able to clock the exhaust pipe a little when I was fitting up my exhaust. Where are you located.
    Last edited by olgraybeard; October 6th, 2012 at 07:01 AM.
    Olgraybeard


  15. #15
    I'm out by Monroe. Give me a call. Maybe we can meet somewhere in the middle. 425-481-1502 Dave

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