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Thread: 62 starting problem and need help please!

  1. #1

    Unhappy 62 starting problem and need help please!

    Hi All,

    I'm brand new to the forum (and car novice) and in a way of introducing myself, I need help!

    I have a 62 4-door Falcon (of course) and just lately I can't get it started. It was starting rather rough of late and now it won't turn over at all. When the key is turned there is a buzzing but the starter does not sound like it's engaged. I checked the battery and it's fine, the dome light does dim when the key is turned however. The buzzing is coming from a small box (Select brand) that is connected to the battery. I have checked all the connections to it and they seem fine. What is this small box and could that be the problem? If so where do I get one and what do I ask for?

    I know these must sound like silly questions to you pros but any help would be greatly appreciated as I want my bird to fly again soon this summer.

    Thanks so much!!

    Jim in Ballard

  2. #2
    Welcome to the site. I think you should consider a new user name. SPAMMERS will find that address and beall over you. Never use your email address on a web page.

    The small box is the starter solenoid. It is mounted to the front of the right side shock tower. I would start with the basics. Clean your battery terminals. Check the cables. Check the ground strap from engine to chassis. The solenoid is cheap to replace if you want to try that.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  3. #3
    Jim,

    No pros here man, just a bunch of normal Joes.

    That box is the starter solenoid which is sort of a big relay to carry all the electrical current your starter needs from the battery to the starter in as direct a path as you can get. So instead of the ignition switch in your dash being the "path" for all that current to flow, the dash ignition switch just tells that solenoid by the battery to "connect" and that's what sends the juice down to the starter.

    OK, so this thing buzzes you say? That is typical of one of these failing. There is a ring contact inside of it that gets pulled down by an electromagnetic. When this ring is pulled down it makes contact with those two big terminals and that is what makes the connection from one side to the other, This buzz you here is typical of this electromagnetic circuit working... sort of. Usually, if it's the starter, this will just CLICK loudly and that's it.

    A chatter, or buzz as you call it is also heard when the solenoid isn't properly grounded to the fender panel. So be sure that those two bolts bolting it down are clean and secure. Assuming as you say the battery and the terminals are good and very clean (have you actually looked) then this solenoid not being properly grounded to the fender is more common than the solenoid actually failing.

    The worst case would be the starter failing. It also has a magnetic circuit in it with a contact. This is to make sure the drive gear is actually engaged into the flywheel ring gear before the starter begins to spin. If this contact is burned up, or the brushes are shot, then the starter can't spin.

    So that's the start routine in a nutshell. Start at the battery (voltage/cleanliness), then check the solenoid connections and that it is secure to the inner fender. The solenoid is cheaper than a starter (and easier to install), so replace it before you crawl underneath and pull out the starter.

    Hope this helps and was understandable!
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  4. #4
    Thanks guys,

    The solenoid appears to bolted firmly and the battery terminals are really clean. If I were to purchase a replacement, what exactly do I ask for and where is a good local place to get one? Sorry again for the basic questions...just trying to learn.

    Thanks!!!

    Jim in Ballard

  5. #5
    You can get one at Schucks. That solenoid has been used in all ford cars and trucks to the 80s. Just tell then you have a 62 Falcon and see what they do. If that isn't listed in their book, tell them to findone for a 60s Mustang.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  6. #6
    Where is Ballard are you? I'm on 74th St near 28th Ave.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  7. #7
    I live on Jones and 77th NW. Actually very close to Kenny as well. Who, by the by, ever so nicely has agreed to come over and give a listen...

  8. #8
    All the important guys live in Ballard. Yah sure, you betcha. I'm sure between these two you should be up and going in no time...
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
    I'm sure between these two you should be up and going in no time...
    That or the car will burn to the ground in a terrific electrical fire.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  10. #10
    Hi All,

    Thanks for your suggestions. Just as a quick update, Kenny did come over and helped me replace the solenoid and that didn't work (it generated the same whirring grinding sound as before) so check that off. Next he removed the starter. I took it to Schuck's and the guy did a bench test and it did start running but he said the voltage was low. So I bought a new one to be replaced by me (watch out) and we'll see if that does the trick. I'm going out of town for a few days but when I return I'll give you all an update and hopefully my bird will fire right up. If not, well, you know I'll be calling... ha!

    Thanks again for all your kind assistance!

    Jim

  11. #11
    Jim,

    Whirring grinding almost sounds like a bad bendix in the starter, which would mean the starter is turning, but when the bendix engages it releases prematurely. Or doesn't engage and hold. I doubt Shucks would check that component, but since you have a new one within the new starter, you should be golden. Let us know when you get back how that works out.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  12. #12
    I'm pretty sure that's exactly what it was. We put a direct 12-volts to the starter and you could feel it trying to engage but it wouldn't go. I was almost going to take the cover off to see if I could work it loose but figured Jim would be better off getting a new one with a lifetime warranty. I seem to put a new one in every 3-4 years of daily use.

    I'm glad we changed that solenoid. The light grey colored one that was in there didn't look stock anyway!

    Next project is the dual master cylinder and maybe a Pertronix electronic ignition unit??

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  13. #13
    Way to go ! Helping this fella get his Bird up and flying earns good karma for you, plus it was just a real nice thing to do.
    Jonathon Hass
    Stanwood, WA.
    '68 Falcon Sports Coupe

  14. #14
    Hi All,

    I thought I'd give you an update. I did install the new starter and ugh, still the same no go and the grinding noise persist. I then noticed that with the headlights on, they would go almost entirely out when I turned the key. Even though I had checked and cleaned the battery terminals and checked the charge with a meter I borrowed my buddies charger and let it run over night. Next morning, it started right up. Ya! I'm fine with the new stuff I put on 'cause I now know it's new and it wasn't that expensive.

    So my question is, I'm guessing the generator isn't charging properly when running and it slowly runs the battery down. If that's the case, is the generator an easy part to find (say, Schucks's, NAPA) or would it be rebuilt or should I put an alternator on instead. I'm trying to keep the car as stock as possible so I would prefer a generator but I will change it if cost prohibitive. Also, as this is a guess, is there a way to see if it's really not working and is it easy to remove? It looks fairly straight forward and the one currently on the car looks quite old.

    Finally, I would appreciate your sage thoughts on this and what you would suggest I do. I'm happy that I've at least got it to go I just want to find a good permanent solution.

    THANKS EVERYONE!

    Jim

  15. #15
    Yeah, I wish we had a sound recorder to hear the sounds you hear. I somehow figured you might have tried giving it a jump... negating the battery as the cause. Should'a asked I guess.

    Anyway, with the car running, use that volt meter you had and check the voltage at the battery with both the headlights on and off. Lights on the voltage should be above 13 volts, but possibly as high as 14.5 or so. This is a generator, so be sure the engine is revving kind of high.

    If the voltage isn't what it should be with the lights on, then pull the generator and have it checked at Schucks or Napa, or just drive to a shop (I go to Sears) and they'll usually check your entire system -- from generator to battery for free... in hopes to sell you the part you need. It could be a battery or the voltage regulator failing as well.

    Alternators can generate more current and voltage at lower speeds. That's one of their main advantages. They are a pretty easy swap, but would require brackets and slight wiring changes to the "new style" voltage regulator you'd also have to install.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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