Hi gina, has anyone looked down the carb to see if the pump works ? and does it just quit and needs to be restarted or just don't go when the foot goes down ? ...jh
Hi gina, has anyone looked down the carb to see if the pump works ? and does it just quit and needs to be restarted or just don't go when the foot goes down ? ...jh
Gina,
Have been awaiting a report of some kind from you about whether you had any luck after bringing it home. Any news?
Also, I finally got the parts I needed to build another carb, though as I indicated it would be a manual choke carb since that is all I had.
Sadly I scavenged so much off of my wagon to bring over to yours, my wagon has not been reassembled to the point of testing this new carb. I really should do that just to be sure rather than just sending it. But, if you've had luck with that other carb, there may be no need.
I also won a bid for another of the correct 1100 Autolite carbs off eBay the other night - though when all is said and done it will cost me about $180 once I have a new kit into it. I felt it is worth having another of the right styles available. Just crossing my fingers it is not a pile when it shows up. And if it is not needed I can sell it on eBay for almost $400 rebuilt. So it will not be a loss for me regardless.
Please keep us posted.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
The report I had from Steve was it ran fine cold, but as soon as it warmed up it would run bad, then die. I thought maybe carb at the time we left, but it presented other possibilities with the OK cold, not-so hot, scenario. That's why I suggested maybe checking the valves again. I set them to .019 cold thinking they's go to about .015/.016 hot, but I read online I maybe should have gone wider (.020/.021) cold.
We were somewhat delirious by the time we all left that night and did not really have the time to scrutinize every little bit of it. Hind-sight being 20/20 I really should have halted and added another day to the project instead of sending her off. But it didn't let her get too far away as it was and we were going to follow her anyway, so it worked out that she didn't get too far down the road.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Gina, what's going on with the Comet (several of us worked on it and are wondering)? Haven't heard anything about it except from Steve and Roger in the last 10 days or so.
Gene Smith
Fredrickson, WA
'65 Ranchero Deluxe
302, EFI, 4-Spd
Granada Discs
Well, not much to say about the Comet. I'm not really sure what to do next so she sits in the driveway waiting. I did go out a few days ago,sat in her to listen to a new CD, sounded great but just made me sad. Been forced to drive the Falcon....now it needs a head gasket ( foam in the oil cap). If it's not one thing it's the other. Anyways my guess is the next step for the Comet is a valve adjustment with the car hot, after that I don't know???? Kinda still in the same boat with no mechanic I trust. I'll just keep putting one foot in front of the other and see what happens😀
Hey Gina let me ask some of the rakers club guys to see who they might use. There has got to be a decent reliable reasonably priced mechanic some where up here. how was the compression check?
It's that or tech day in port Townsend!!! I'll drive mine over!
Last edited by doghows; February 7th, 2014 at 01:44 PM.
63 Sedan Delivery
5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear
The carb core I bought is looking pretty good, so I think I will have a very decent automatic choke 1100 tomorrow. I also have another I can build using parts from that one that is on the Comet now, so we'll swap them out.
So yes, next we need to check the valves again cold, and then hot. If checked cold, and they are less than the .017 I set them at, then chances (depending on how much less they are) then it's possible why it runs good cold and then worse the warmer it gets.
To make sure they get adjusted correctly (and in case I'm not able to get there first), here's how to do it:
1) Rotate the engine until the distributor is pointing to #1 and the crank pointer is at top dead center (0 on the pointer).
2) With the distributor cap off, make a mark where the rotor is pointing as #1 top dead center.
3) Make a mark 180 degree across the distributor.
4) Make 4 more marks between these marks (2 before and 2 after the 180 degree mark) to divide it all into 6 even pie slices. These marks now represent when each cylinder is going to fire based upon the firing order.
5) The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and the rotor spins clock-wise.
6) Set at 1 (timing mark still at zero) you can adjust the first two valves.
7) Rotate to the next mark (distributor going clockwise) and adjust #5 valves. Then next is #3, and when you are at #6 you should again have the time mark at zero on the crank again. Crank rotates twice for one rotation of the distributor.
8) Continue around until you have adjusted them all cold to about .017 cold (like I did before) and then bolt the cover on and warm it up. Check them hot same as above and the hot adjustment needs to be .016 for intake and exhaust.
We also need to double-check the point gap or dwell (.024-.026) or 35-38 dwell.
If it looks like Miles can do this I will ship over the carb just in case. PM me with your shipping address Gina just so I know where to ship it - or where to come if I can arrange a trip over.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
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