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Thread: Little @ time

  1. #151
    I don't know if you can do this with your engine but with my six I was able to pull the distributor, put a 1/4" socket extension down onto the oil pump shaft, hook up a drill and prime oil through the system.

    Gave me piece of mind before starting the engine after a top end rebuild and cleaning the block. You might do a Google search to see if that's somehow possible with your engine...unless someone here knows??

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  2. #152

    Smile

    Maybe a 100 is an over statement, but theres always the peanut gallary.

    Guy

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    I did this a coupla months ago b/4 starting my new 302 and all worked fine. But I'd be remiss if I didn't suggest to you what was suggested to me. Use a good duct tape and secure the socket to the extension(s) that you use. You probably don't want to drop the pan to retrieve the socket that fell off your extension.

    But I'm "figgerin" you don't need to do this procedure because you've turned it over so much attempting to start it.
    Last edited by SmithKid; March 18th, 2012 at 07:36 PM.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  4. #154
    Guy-

    I seriously doubt you have much wrong, if anything, with the wiring. I certainly don't think there's anything with what you added with the alternator. It really is a pretty basic wiring job, and you appear very detail oriented. With the distributor being 180 degrees out, that would have made it pretty hard to start, so with the new battery in I would play it safe and just do everything from under the hood until you can get it to start.

    1) use a remote start switch (+bat to the S terminal on the solenoid).
    2) jumper between +bat to the red Pertronix wire
    3) jumper between +bat to the + on coil.
    4) black on Pertronic to the - on coil.

    Nothing else is needed to start it. 12 volts to the coil isn't good for real long if it's a stock coil. But just to see if you can get it to run for more than a minute, you'll be OK. Once you can get it to run that long, then you can hook back up one thing back to normal at a time.

    Or just put in the new battery and see what happens.

    It's snowing, raining, windy, sunny, (rinse, repeat) every few minutes around here. Very scitzoid weather.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #155
    Oh - and I agree, you probably don't have to worry about priming the pump. You have been turning it over plenty. If you decide to anyway, I use a long 1/4" drive extension with a 5/16 socket taped about 2 or 3 times to hold it on.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #156

    Smile

    I have been pulling the plugs and turning it over for about 10 seconds to get the oil flowing before start attemps. When I pull the valve cover off I can see fresh oil everywhere so according to Com Camp the oil takes over after the engine turns over for lubing the internals. I am installing the altenator unit today and will begin going over the wiring I installed. At lease I found out the battery had a bad cell in it yesterday.

    Thank all of you for your help,
    Guy

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    OK so I am tired of this cold wet weather. Roger get some tools together, I will pack up the motor home, and we are off to warmer country!!!
    I wish. I hope you get it figured out Guy, I wish we were closer and we could have a tech day at your place. Any way keep plugging away you will get it and it will be worth it. We will stay tuned. Good Luck...

  8. #158
    After waking up again today to snow and ice on the road - I'm with you Steve! ENOUGH ALREADY with the snow!



    Well Guy, as your post says... A little at a time. So relax and remember to breathe - always. I'm am still awaiting the post that says "IT'S ALIVE."
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  9. #159

    Smile

    Thanks. We'll get there.

    I did learn something. Next time I go get an alternator I'm pulling the wiring with it all the way to the regulator.

    I read one guys putting a 4 carb on his 6 cylinder, wow.

    Guy

  10. #160

    Smile

    Roger,

    I bought a new battery, as my original one had a bad cell. It has 900 cranking amps. I bought a new starter but it was a direct replacement.

    What amount of cranking amps do you recommend for my original type starter?

    I am going to try and get her started today,
    Guy

  11. #161

    Smile

    I brought the battery back today and got a 650 amp. Got everything installed, ohmed out my altenator to regulator wiring, it all seems correct. I am waiting on an Actron dwell, tach, volt meter I ordered from Sears to arrive. I need to monitor the RPMs for the first 15 minutes to brake the cam in.

    Guy

  12. #162
    Yeah- I don't think you're needing 900 CCA, but it probably would not have hurt anything. That's a "potential" value, meaning it is there if you need it. I have a red-top Optima with, IIRC, a 775CCA reserve. It turns over nicely.

    Having the gauges are good, but the important thing is to just make sure you have high revs when it starts to break in a cam. But playing it safe is not a bad idea.

    Keep us posted. We are all going to wish this forum has sound pretty soon. I can feel it.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  13. #163

    Smile

    Good morning everybody,

    There is music in Albuquerque. WaHoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    I am so happy I'm coming out of my skin. My first engine build.

    Thank all of you so very much for all of your help and patience!

    I ran her for 10 minutes at 1500 RPMs for the cam break-in and shut her down. As the RPMs increase the engine smooths out beautifully, sounding stronger. She is idling a little rough but I will go over the air/gas mixture and move the distributor a little back and forth to see if that will help the idle. The new battery held 12.50V after shut down, so I think the altenator is doing it's job. I will need a new ignition switch, as holding it in the start position has damaged it.

    I called my Dad to let him hear it run. I could not wait to tell him so in the pictures that is why I'm on the phone.

    My wife's 50th is on the 9th and we are going on vaction for the next two weeks. We leave on the 5th for a 10 day cruise in the Caribbean. I can now go knowing she starts.

    Thanks to all of you for your help and encouragement,
    You guys are wonderful, and so is the club,
    I can't say thank you enough,
    Guy
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #164
    Good for you... I'll drink to that, now you can rest for now, at least you have the doors open, must be warm there....jh

  15. #165
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Great news. Guy! I know exactly how you feel, as I'm only six weeks or so from when I started mine. A GREAT feeling!

    A quick way to check the output of the charge system is to check the voltage at the battery while the engine is running. It should (charge) be around 14.25 vdc and then taper down as the battery reaches full charge.

    Again, congrats.
    Last edited by SmithKid; April 1st, 2012 at 05:11 PM.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

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