Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 36 of 36

Thread: `62 winter projects

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    I also have completed a couple of projects this winter. I took advantage of a friendly powder coating guy and had him powder coat my brake/clutch pedal assembly and then installed the roller bearing kit as mentioned in another thread. I also (with a couple of other peoples help) swapped out my cam and lifters for one that gets me a bit more vacuum, a better idle, and also a bit more low rpm grunt. I also don't feel that I lost any noticeable amount of ponies. I used a Edelbrock 2122 setup. I also added the rocker nuts that allow adjustment of the stock rockers. So far I'm very pleased with the results.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    I better get busy with my stuff and stop powdering everything, no wonder I'm behind?? I want a ride in yours Gene
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  3. #33
    I've got a question about the strut rod bushings. The sheet that came with them shows a centering collar. Nothing like that when I removed mine although there was a fragment of metal you can see to the left of the nuts.

    So I'm guessing the illustration is just generic and the protrusions that come together when you push the bushings together over the sleeve do the centering?? Didn't see anything about a centering collar in the manual.

    And they talk about torquing the nut to 75 ft. lbs. but I've heard others say they tighten until the length of the spacer prevents you from compressing any further.

    Any strut rod tips appreciated. It sure is nice to finally have a few hours of sunlight after work to get things done during the weekdays.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  4. #34
    I've seen a variety of configurations on these. I have a new set around here somewhere that had the rubber only. This style uses the sleeve as a crush/stop to keep from over-compressing the bushings. But you do torque this style (with the sleeve) and not on the other. The other type used the lock nuts and that was it. Tighten until the bushing bulges.

    You show two nuts - are they for one side? Being lock nuts that doesn't make sense and the instructions doesn't show them drawn in. Usually you have a rear nut and a forward nut, but the rearward one is usually not that style. The narrow side of the nut would be the stop against the washer. It would work, I guess.



    Some strut rods didn't use a rear nut - the stop was part of the rod and was not adjustable. I've not seen that style on an early Falcon.
    Last edited by Luva65wagon; March 18th, 2014 at 10:56 PM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #35
    They give you two compression nuts per side. I'm leaving the rear nut that's on the rod now where it is. I don't see much sense in cranking it all the way up those fine threads just to put a shiny one on. The old one's in good shape and turns freely for alignment adjustments.

    Since I'm changing these bushings, have disconnected most of the steering linkage, am putting on the thicker sway bar, and reinstalling the rebuilt steering box, I will be bringing it in for alignment when it's back together. I'll ask them to check my work!

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
    They give you two compression nuts per side. I'm leaving the rear nut that's on the rod now where it is.
    Probably a good idea. This type of lock nut is not made to act as a stop in this sort of instance, where the rear washer would be hard up against the coned side of the nut. That's just wacky! And you can't start these reversed to allow the flat side to ride flat against the rear washer. Best bet is to use the old lock nuts as long as they are not too loose. They were nylon lock nuts, but where the nylon was like a dowel pressed into the side of them as opposed to what you are more used to, as in the nylon being a ring all around the top edge of the nut. They should turn, but with some force needing to be applied to them.

    If you've not taken them apart yet you should make some reference measurements between a known spot on the front edge of the frame/core support to the lower control arm. Then when you bolt on the new bits remeasure these same spots and adjust the two nuts (torque them when measuring) and you should be able to at least get back to the original spot, but with new bushings.

    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



Similar Threads

  1. Projects
    By doghows in forum Chit Chat
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: May 21st, 2012, 03:32 PM
  2. Rainier Falcon Flyer - Winter 2011
    By redfalken in forum Events and Announcements
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: March 18th, 2011, 08:20 AM
  3. Did you have a winter falcon project ?
    By falcon cobra in forum Show Off Your Ride
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: February 16th, 2010, 06:36 AM
  4. Winter 2009/2010 Projects
    By pbrown in forum Tech Talk
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: December 6th, 2009, 08:31 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •