Lifters and valve specifications - '63 144ci

**63Sedan** · July 5th, 2011, 09:36 AM

I'm wondering if there's any advice for replacing the lifters on my '63, or is it pretty straight forward?
Something is off with the motor as far as drive-ability. I've thus far rebuilt the carb and rebuilt the distributor, adjusted the timing, there doesn't seem to be much else other than fuel (which is flowing just fine) and valve adjustment. I haven't yet tackled adjusting the valves as I'm looking for proper specifications, I've seen two different specs online. Can anybody give me the proper specs for this motor? I figured I'd go through the lifters first, since they are pretty cheap and I'm sure with the age of the car a few of them have failed by now.

**MacDee** · July 5th, 2011, 11:52 AM

Um...
Replacing lifters requires removing the head.
I don't have the specs right offhand, but I can dig them out tonight and update tomorrow.

**Luva65wagon** · July 5th, 2011, 12:54 PM

I wouldn't just throw in new lifters, since if they have failed - so has the cam. You'd want to do these both at the same time anytime you want to replace one or the other.

I'm not 100% up-to-speed on the valve-train on anything earlier than 65, which was all hydraulic, but others may know. I think a few of us have the aftermarket "everything you wanted to know about the Ford 6, but were afraid to ask" book, which will have these specs - but my copy is not here. I do know some had adjustable rockers and some do not, but I am not sure it was because some were solid lifters or not.

So, in essence, I'm being totally worthless to you at the moment.

**redfalken** · July 5th, 2011, 08:09 PM

After you get the head off, you can use a strong magnet to pull the lifters out of their bore.

If you have hydraulic lifters, you could do like I did and just clean them up. They can be disassembled and soaked in Chem-Dip. Make sure the same lifter goes back in the same bore!

Also, don't mix up the parts from lifter to lifter when cleaning. Some of mine were pretty gummed up and hard to get apart but I eventually got them all done. There are several tiny parts inside the lifter so be careful! I lost a spring from one and ended up having to buy a new lifter. Seems to be doing OK so far!

While you have them out, check for wear. If they're too far gone, take Roger's advice and get new lifters and a new cam.

**63Sedan** · July 6th, 2011, 07:25 AM

Thanks for the input everybody, I might just add a few drops of ATF to see if I can free up the sticking lifters for now and do a valve adjustment first to see if I can get things running properly. (Anybody have a chance to look up what the specs are?) Thanks.

**Luva65wagon** · July 6th, 2011, 01:44 PM

Does anybody know for sure if they are hydraulic or not?

I got home way too late last night to look. I will look in my book tonight if nobody beats me to it.

**63Sedan** · July 6th, 2011, 03:01 PM

I was figuring they were hydraulic just based on parts look up at autozone. Is there a difference in the rocker assembly between the two or anyplace else on the motor where I could determine if they actually are hydraulic?

**Luva65wagon** · July 6th, 2011, 03:47 PM

According to the Schjeldahl Bible the 144 was solid lifter. Interestingly, this nifty little book (I have the 4th printing of 2001) doesn't tell you the valve adjustment specs on the 144 and 170 with solid lifters. So onto Google and found this:

The spec for mech lifters is .016" hot for intake and exhaust. Add .004 to the setting if you are setting them cold to allow for expansion when hot.

Set engine up on TDC # 1 cyl. now adjust both valves on # 1 cyl, Turn the crank (looking from the front of engine) clockwise 1/3rd of a turn and adjust both valves on # 5 cyl. Now repeat this for each cylinder following the firing order, order is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4.

If you remove the distributor cap while diong this you will notice that each 1/3rd of a turn of the crank, the rotor will point to the appropriate plug lead position in the distributor cap for the cylinder you need to adjust the valves on .

Personally, this sounds too clean. I always adjusted valves with the engine hot and running and splashing oil all over my hands and the engine bay.

**modified17** · July 6th, 2011, 10:25 PM

I had a old truck with a 460 in it that had a lifter that was making a lot of noise and I put a quart of Marvelous Mystery Oil into it and after about 10 minutes it stop making any noise. You might give that a try.