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Thread: One wire alt. conversion

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kenmore, WA
    Posts
    254

    One wire alt. conversion

    I wasn't going to work on this project right now, but am getting ready to order a self adjusting brake kit from falconparts.com and was looking at this setup. I'm curious if anyone else has used it, and whether it's easier/cheaper/bettter than the GM alternator setup. I already have the alternator and brackets, but am concerned about what happens if the regulator modules goes out - you can't just get another one at the local parts store.

    http://www.falconparts.com/One%20Wire%20Alternator.htm
    Thor Johnson
    www.flickr.com/photos/sedanman
    Low & Slow '64 2dr Sedan
    Stock(for now)200 I-6, Lokar shifted C-4, Wedge kit,V-8 coils, dropped granada spindles/discs,GT leaves,3.0 8 inch

  2. #2
    Thor I had one of those little boxes that goes on the end of the alt. the electronics are on all the time and if you dont unhook the batt. or run it once a month or more, you will need a charge, for it to start..mine went into the garbage, just get a one wire alt...cost more but works better...john h

  3. #3
    I have a Powermaster 100A one wirealternator. It works great. I highly recommend them. They also have a 140A and a 200A version.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


  4. #4
    Here's a technical write-up comparing the one-wire and three-wire (you be the judge of their bias):

    http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

    I did the three-wire just so replacements would be easier to find and cheaper.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kenmore, WA
    Posts
    254
    It sounds as though none of you thought this was a good system, so maybe I'll shelve this project for now and concentrate on my brakes, front end, and cylinder head (depending on the news I get this week from the shop)

    However, for the sake of clarification;

    John - what do you mean by the electronics are on all the time - do you have a clock, or are you saying the module is a drain itself?

    Patrick - Is that a GM alternator? I'm confused as I thought they were more than one wire...

    Kenny - thanks for the link, but I'm electrically challenged I guess Patrick's answer will clarify for me, but is the three wire a GM or ford alternator? My concern using the GM alternator is the lower mounting bracket mating up with the 6cyl engine. I should probably go to the Ford six board. I really wouldn't mind getting rid of the ugly regulator and wiring on the core support, but reliability is more important to me.

    Either way, I guess I'll go ahead and order my brake parts and skip this for now. No use in trying to do everything all at once - that's how projects never get finished. I want this back on the road for the Rat Bastards show at XXX Aug. 30th
    Thor Johnson
    www.flickr.com/photos/sedanman
    Low & Slow '64 2dr Sedan
    Stock(for now)200 I-6, Lokar shifted C-4, Wedge kit,V-8 coils, dropped granada spindles/discs,GT leaves,3.0 8 inch

  6. #6
    thor.. the little box has a IC in it that is hooked to 12 volts with the single wire so you need a switch on that wire to turn it off when the motor is not running...the GM alts. don't work that way, and don't run the batt. down over time....john h

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Sedanman View Post
    Patrick - Is that a GM alternator? I'm confused as I thought they were more than one wire...
    The Powermaster unit is available as a GM or Ford style case. Mine is a Ford version so the original brackets still work. There is actually two wires on mine. One wire is the charge wire which goes straight to the battery. The other is the GEN dash light.
    Patrick Brown
    331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI


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