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Thread: Reconstruction has begun.

  1. #46
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    I am going with a AOD in this car, so I will be filling up that hole soon. When I get the floors done I will get them sprayed with that metal sray that my friend does. I will let you know how that goes.!!

  2. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by BillP 98201 View Post
    Nice work Steve. You are coming along nicely.
    I think Roger should show us his painting talents at the next tech day.
    I can lay down the semi-flat black along with the best of them.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  3. #48
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    How are you with metal stretching? I learned that valuable lesson of measure six f*#@ing times and cut once. I have a bit of a gap to fix on the passanger floor. Oh well, not a big deal just more work and a lesson learned. Other than that it went well. As soon as I fix the gaps it is on to the back of the car. It is soooo cool to get new parts into the car and see some progress. SO all you guys that are working on yours do not dismay it will all come together in the end. Enjoy the pics and laugh all you want. i know I goofed. Later Steve.

    P.S. Sorry for the crapy pics. My flash wasn't cooperating this morning.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #49
    That could be either air conditioning or a heater depending on what the temperature is under the car. So I guess you needed a 7th measurement?

    One suggestion... use the cardboard shims they sell at the home center for shimming out sheet-rock and regular cardboard to tape up a template of what you are trying to fit -- and then transfer that over to the real part. If it fit as cardboard, it should fit as steel.

    Otherwise, thats' a minor thing to patch, since being hidden under the carpets it doesn't need to be real pretty. Doing that on the roof will not be so easy to cover for.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  5. #50
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    I hear you. Just a little more work and it will be fine. I'm just pissed at myself for doing it. I will try the template trick when I get to the drip rails and stuff on the back of the car. Thanks for the tip.. Steve

  6. #51
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    Well didn't work on the car itself much this weekend. I spent most of it carving up the parts car and sandblasting the parts. But here is all that good sheet metal Rodger was talking about. Now I just need to spend a lot of time fitting and trimming to get this part right.
    I love it when a plan comes together.
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  7. #52
    Oh boy... I kind'a want to watch.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  8. #53
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Seattle
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    I wish my cargo floor was that clean.

    What Media do you use in your blaster?

  9. #54
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    I will be over in Seattle on Saturday, I picked up a 62 Ranchero for free. Well I will powder coat a frame for a guy in trade but close enough.
    I think I will start on the panels on Sunday probably do the floor first so if you want to watch (or help) let me know.
    I use mainly clean blast for stripping, it is a copper slag that is pretty aggressive but leaves a perfect finish for my powder to adhere to. I have another floor that I have stripped here if anyone is looking for one. It has a few small holes but nothing that can't be tacked up. Also if anyone needs parts from a 4 door wagon let me know and I will bring them with me. I have good glass except the back and front windows, all four doors are good and much more. Look for (hopefully) more pics on Monday.

  10. #55
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    Oct 2006
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    I don't think I have the ambition to replace my entire cargo area... I'll just patch what I have for now.

    I'm still interested in that little removable floor section behind the rear seat and your spare, tire cover. If your planning on coming over for the Monroe Swap Meet - we could meet then. Please to shoot me a price you are looking for on those.

    I am going to buy a smallish blast cabinet (Probably the Summit SUM-919050) for things like bumper brackets, air cleaner and steel wheels. The items will be shot with a rattle can rather than powdercoat. Would you still recommend the same media? Hopefully something that can be recycled more than a couple of times. I see "Starbast" by DuPont coming up often in searches. I'll need about 50 pounds to fill the cabinet - it's about $60 to my door.

    Thanks for any advice -

  11. #56
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    The kleen blast will be too heavy for a smaller cabinet. Save your money on shipping and drive down to the Kleen Blast facility in Tacoma. They have 30 different types of media there. I would probably lean more towards an aluminum oxide for the smaller unit. That or a courser grit of ground glass, not glass bead, but ground glass. Glass bead is very fine it leaves a excellent finish but takes longer to get the metal clean. I buy the kleen blast for about $6 per 100lb bag, and my glass bead runs about $35 a 50lb bag. You could ask them about kleen blast in different grits as well I use a 35 grit in my blast room. Hope this helps.

  12. #57
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    That is great help. Thank you. I have heard you have to be more selective when choosing media with a non-pressurized blaster.

    jeff

  13. #58
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    No problem glad to help when I can...

  14. #59
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    Well I got the rear floor in and it looks real good. Now I got to put the quarters in and the upper rain gutter pieces. Hopefully they will go in as good as the rest. Enjoy the pics and I will keep them coming.
    Later Steve
    Oh yeah gotta test fit the seat!!!
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  15. #60
    Looks great Steve..... Are you starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel?
    Bill Proctor .. 1963 Falcon Sprint. Looking forward to learning new things.

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