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Old 03-27-2012, 11:40 AM
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Heater Core Replacement

I will be replacing my heater core shortly, but I have a question:
Is there any reason I shouldn't put some short lengths of heater hose off of the heater core, just enough to go through the firewall a little bit, and then connect with unions on the forward side of the firewall to the remainder of the heater hose runs. It would make installing the heater easier, and would allow it to be an easier repair if heater hoses ever need to be replaced.
It seems like an obvious thing to do, but I've never heard of anyone doing it.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:01 PM
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Thats what I did and just for that reason, and hooked them together with 1/2 in. copper pipe, works fine...jh
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:45 PM
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You can use long pieces of 5/8 hose to reach there final destination. Hook them to the heater first and then thread the heater box with hosed through from the inside. Cut the hoses to fit where they need to go. Just unhook them to work on the heater box. You'll probably have one go to the intake plenum heater and the other to the engine block.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:44 PM
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The reason they put the hose hanger strap on the shock tower brace was to tether all the excess hose you were suppose to have to need to unbolt and pull the heater box away from the firewall enough to get to those clamps. Of course, you always ran the risk of spillage of antifreeze inside the cabin. Twas a funky affair.

You could use short nubbins of hose and some straight pipe just long enough to protrude past the firewall. Keep in mind that the more junctions the greater source of leaks. Get new hose and new clamps and a tube that won't corrode. Copper plumbing like John said would probably be just fine.

V8 cars were worse since the holes in the firewall were 'right where' the valve cover was. And worse yet with the new aluminium valve covers.
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:28 PM
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I ran a single piece of hose just because I think it looks nicer and as Roger said, less chance of a leak (although a small chance).

And it wasn't really that much more difficult to install or take off. I keep an assortment of plugs around to jam in the hose when I need to drop the heater box. And that's not too often.

So either way is good IMHO. Whatever floats your boat!
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Old 03-27-2012, 08:45 PM
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I also used one-piece hoses because I like the look better. I'm probably removing the heater box soon and feel i can "blow out" 99% of the coolant before tilting the box out. I can also plug the hoses before removal. Not worth the "ug" look (my opinion) and the cost of additional 4 hose clamps to attempt to keep the spill down. The shorter hoses would still need to go out through the cab anyway, so....... I guess this is keeping my boat afloat.
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:46 PM
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What's all this talk of boats? Is Gene anxious for putting a pole in the water?
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:58 PM
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That's not a boat.

This is a boat.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:21 PM
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I AM getting anxious! But you ain't doin' that to either of my trucks!
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pbrown View Post
That's not a boat.

This is a boat.
We're watching all the old Top Gear episodes on Netflix streaming. We just saw the episode in which Jeremy Clarkson actually made it across the English Channel in that thing!

Getting back to the topic...
I just finished rebuilding my heater box (new core, new motor, new seal kit) and installed it this afternoon.
Wow! I'll have heat!
I have one hose from the core directly to the aft intake manifold fitting. That was plenty short enough. On the other hose, I inserted a Prestone cap thingy in the line that runs from the water pump to the heater core. From the cap thingy to the heater core is plenty short enough.
Of course I discovered the cable housings on the temp and defroster cables have separated from the body of the knobs. I can engage the defroster, but can't disengage it; I can increase the heat, but I can't decrease it... unless I reach under the dash!
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Last edited by MacDee; 04-14-2012 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacDee View Post
Of course I discovered the cable housings on the temp and defroster cables have separated from the body of the knobs. I can engage the defroster, but can't disengage it; I can increase the heat, but I can't decrease it... unless I reach under the dash!
Mine separated there there as well. I took it out and wrapped wire around the pot metal base and ran a few strands of it down the cable sheath, smeared some epoxy over it then covered the whole mess with heat shrink tubing. I'm sure there are better ways including a replacement cable as a swap meet.
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Old 04-14-2012, 07:44 PM
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That happened on a couple of mine as well. There's probably some kind of swaging tool out there that would pinch it back into shape!

Jeff, does the one we used to hang that sign have a small enough size?
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Old 04-14-2012, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redfalken View Post
That happened on a couple of mine as well. There's probably some kind of swaging tool out there that would pinch it back into shape!

Jeff, does the one we used to hang that sign have a small enough size?
We can bring it to golden gardens and give it a shot.
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Old 04-15-2012, 10:58 PM
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I have a box of cables from all the cars I pillaged from. Not having seen this issue before I'm not sure from what I'm reading what happened, but I may have something too. I can bring all my bits to the meet too. The only cable I had issues with is the switch/cable, which I cobbled together with JB-Weld, etc. Working for now - but I have no spare of that.
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Old 04-18-2012, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon View Post
I have a box of cables from all the cars I pillaged from. ... I can bring all my bits to the meet too. The only cable I had issues with is the switch/cable, ...
The switch/cable, which I believe is the one I called the temperature cable, is available from Falcon Enterprises. If I can find a defroster cable, or figure out how to fix mine, I'm THERE!
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