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Old 06-16-2014, 11:43 PM
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Red face The Slick thread. 61-66 f series trucks

Well, the dookie is hitting the fan..

The wife gave me some cash to go look for falcon parts.
So with pair of binoculars I hit the dirt roads looking for hidden treasures.
So I head out to this area that has mobile homes that are mobile and cars that aren't. If we were down south I'd might make a Jeff Foxworthy comment.

Anyways I spot what looks to be a falcon rear end hidden in a yard full of cars. Bonus a owner is out side and I don't have to knock on doors, so I stop.

Well the falcon didn't have anything useable, but it was a falcon. What was left of that car should be melted into Budweiser cans. Not a single panel was useable.

So I ask if they had any other old fords they'd be interested in selling. They said sure everything is for sale if the price is right. By now you can see where this is going and I'm about to step in it knee deep.

So over to the shop we walk. Once inside I'm looking at a bunch of 70's stuff. Yuck! BUT.. yep you knew it was coming... over in the corner was a 60's ford pick up. Under a layer of dust and dirt.

So I ask, what can you tell me about the pickup? Oh that old thing? I'm thinking ok, must be a pile because the way they're talking about it.

Turns out that, that old thing is a 1965 f100 4x4 high-boy with 62k original miles. Its got a newer 360 with an edlebrock street master aluminum intake and a Holley carb. Its a 4 speed with granny low and a divorced transfer case, something I'll be if I keep buying old cars and trucks. But I didn't buy the falcon wagon, so. It not just me.

The back story is I've always had a soft spot for the 57-66 pickups. And now that I'm rural enough and I don't like driving the Fairlane down gravel roads, I've been half *** looking for a field or farm truck.

So I do some haggling agree on a price then did some horse trading. No cars were harmed in my trading, neither were the horses. Anyhow I'm now the proud owner of a pickup. oops

Threw in a battery plus some gas and been driving it around today.
Everything was working, but somehow the driver side brake light quit? Its not the bulb.. I ran out of light but I think its not getting power to the tail light.

My plan is to go junkyard crawling tomorrow.
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Last edited by Nathan289; 10-30-2014 at 08:18 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-16-2014, 11:50 PM
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Waaaay cool Nathan! I'd love to cruise around in something like that. Can't wait to get some updates as you give it a spit shine.

Once the fur stop flying!
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2014, 12:12 AM
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Its been fun so far..

The old trucks sure are different to drive compared to the falcons.

I have some clearance marker and id lights to re-install once I make some new gaskets.

First priority fix the brake light.
First purchase obtain a shop manual.
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:23 AM
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So much for my junkyard crawl.
Its been a steady moderate rain since 8am.. not the kind of weather I want to be outside pulling parts in.

Light rain ok, but this stuff, not a chance.

Oh-well

think my BBQ tonight might be canceled too.
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2014, 02:14 PM
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Ah man! I've been seriously thinking about getting one of those! Ask Gene, I almost bought one at the swap meet for $1800! Never talked to the guy, but that was his asking price on the For Sale sign. Money stayed in the bank though.

I have a '67 with a new motor in it, which I've casually tried selling a few times, but the body style I wanted (when I bought it) was a 61-66. Not much into the bump-side 67-72 or dent-side 73-79. I drove a 57 F100 in high school (my favorite of those years because of the single headlight system) and had a '56 Panel for years, but have never had the 61-66 style.

Yours is the one I mentioned to Gene as having the 61-66 body style, but has the 57-60 bed. Not sure why they did that, but they appear often that way. Yours being a 65 tends to refute my opinion that it was a transitional thing when the 61's came out they had too many of the old-style beds. They should'a ran out of those long before '65. Now it has me wondering even more why the old-style beds were used on the newer body trucks.

Good buy though!
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2014, 04:00 PM
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Roger,

From the little research I've done and before i call it truth as I'd like to know the source, so right now I consider it internet folk lore but the info I found is that ford put the old box on the factory high boys.

I too thought that ford used the old beds in late 63 as a response to the unibody frames flexing and the doors popping open

But when I started finding 64 & 65 built that way I started looking deeper. What I found from looking at photos of other f100s is that ford built 2 kinds of 4x4s.

Type 1 cab and matching bed that has 4x4 hubs but sits no higher than the 2wd trucks.
I looked at one in cda I didnt believe it was 4x4.

Type 2 cab with missed matched bed. That is lifted. This truck sits higher than my 2013 f150.
My truck has newer blocks in the rear but the front appears stock. I think the po lifted the back to compensate for sagging springs.

The front springs hangers are stamped CAT not sure if that means anything but I thought it was cool.

Roger you have any ideas on my electrical issues?
Brake light worked and quit and its not the bulb.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:07 PM
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Turn signal flashes on the right and left? Brake lights go through the turn signal switch, so make sure it's not that. If TS's work, the wire connection is good to the bulb. And the bulb is good too. There is only one wire from the brake switch to the TS switch and then passes to both wires if switch in the center and only the opposite wire of the one that is signalling.
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Old 06-17-2014, 04:22 PM
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Roger,
Turn signals were left and right.
right brake light works. Left did but no longer.
bulb is good and it works.

The emergency flasher doesnt work that bulb either.

I did a quick power check at the socket and I got nothing but I think my test light ground wasnt good.

I'll try again later.
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Old 06-17-2014, 09:47 PM
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Thanks Roger,

Your reminder about the brake lights running through the turn signal switch.
I went and played with the switch and its either worn out or shorted out.

It doesn't fully return to center after I turn a corner. The turn signals don't blink, but the brake light won't work because the switch isn't centered.

I can make either side quit working depending on which direction I made turn signal switch.

I think it also affects the hazard lights too, as sometimes one of the dash lights doesn't work either. When those are on.
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63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
* this spot is vacant for future project*
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  #10  
Old 06-22-2014, 06:29 AM
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Roger,

I could use your wiring expertise.

The f100 is an original alternator truck.
p.o. installed a gm one wire and removed the old regulator.

The alternator light doesnt work. The alt gauge that I imagine measures amps doesnt seem to work either.

The gauge reads -60 -30 0 30 60. When I turn the flashers on the needle moves with the flashing lights. 0 negative 0 negative amp draw.. ok gauge works.

How do I make the gauge read the alternator output?

I imagine it has something to do with the missing light and regulator.

Any ideas. I've never done a gm conversion. It charges but im anal about everything working.

Im trying to fix the horn circut too. I think the contact in the wheel is my problem.
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  #11  
Old 06-22-2014, 10:47 PM
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Look what I found behind a headliner in a 63 f100 at the junkyard today.
its a movie poster from a drive in from Lovell, WY dated june 1964 .
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File Type: jpg 20140622_224234.jpg (130.8 KB, 12 views)
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2014, 11:19 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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Nathan,

For the ammeter to work that main charge wire (Alt to Battery) has to go all the way Alt to the ammeter and then back to the battery.

The charge indicator (dummy light) often doesn't work with a 1-wire setup like ours. I've converted to 3G alternators on both of mine. I use a volt meter as opposed to a light or ammeter, so I've not dug into whether there is a real way to do it or not. Or what it's doing in the first place. When Gene bought his a month ago we asked the guy who sells them how to connect up the light, and he said it doesn't work that way.

I'm guessing a part of the regulator has a component (like a relay) that when there is no charge (key on, engine off) it grounds though the bulb (light on) and when you start the motor and current flows through the relay if pulls the contact open and the light goes out. Just guessing, but that's how I'd do it.

I'll do some digging for you to see if I can't find you an answer to the idiot light with a GM Alt. But to be clear, you have a factory idiot light and an ammeter?
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Old 06-22-2014, 11:28 PM
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Yep. Center gauge is Speedo, odometer, water temp, fuel gauge, oil light, alt light.

Gauge to the left is amp meter as I doubt they'd have 60 volt charging systems.

Gauge to the right is oil pressure.

The amp meter is hooked up to something as it will read a amp draw, flashers on. But when truck is running it doesn't read anything.

I looked at MAD electrical website. You can hook up a dummy light to the gm 3 wire and possibly the one wire if you remove the plug and hook up a wire to the R terminal.

I'll have to look into it more. I found the socket for the light and if I put a bulb in it, it lights up, but doesn't turn off.

I was hoping I could hook the field or the other wire up to the r terminal on the alternator and make it work.
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  #14  
Old 06-22-2014, 11:38 PM
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But the original wires are probably terminated where the old regulator was. Don't know. Wiring hacks are common. Who knows what's what now.

I'll look around for answers, but if you found something to try, you can mock-up right at the ALT. If you can get it to work there first, then trace-back from there to wire it that way at the dash.
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  #15  
Old 06-23-2014, 04:28 AM
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Regulator and everything has been removed.

I have one wire from battery going to solenoid. I think that where it goes.
then I have one factory plug. Green wire with a stripe iirc and a yellow wire.

I thought they were part of the horn circuit but I fixed that and its not.

This truck is wired different than the ford cars. Wiring is the same color code so far. But its different.

The starter solenoid nis on the back firewall and next to it is a power junction block.

Power from solenoid goes into it and a lot of stuff comes off of it.

I'm going to clean terminal there tonight. I'll take pictures.
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