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Old 10-11-2006, 06:38 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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Scarebird Information

Hey folks,

I'm trying to wrap up the newsletter and I'm doing the tech article on the Scarebird disc-brake change we did for Gary. Can anyone here post the parts list they suggested? Gary, are you here yet?
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2006, 01:46 PM
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I'm Here

Roger,
I sent you the instructions we used with the parts list off line. Shall I go ahead and include the parts list here in the forum as well?
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EX... '63 Hardtop
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200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #3  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacDee View Post
Roger,
I sent you the instructions we used with the parts list off line. Shall I go ahead and include the parts list here in the forum as well?
Gary, I have not been able to even check my home email for a couple days. Too much going on. But I'll look for those tonight as I'll be working more on the newsletter.

I would post the Scarebird information (as much as you can) so others who need it can get it can (outside our group of members). That's the good thing about a forum.

Hey - new smilies!
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Old 10-13-2006, 02:57 PM
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Go ahead and post it here to if you don't mind.
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  #5  
Old 10-14-2006, 07:47 AM
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The Instructions

I thought I could just paste in the instructions I got from Scarebird, but I see no way to paste in something from the clipboard. Can I not do that?
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Gary MacDonald
ROGER's...
EX... '63 Hardtop
Had...
Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #6  
Old 10-14-2006, 08:29 AM
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Just press CTRL + V in the edit box to paste. This assumed you have Windows of course. This is a standard Windows paste method that will work in all your applications.
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  #7  
Old 10-14-2006, 10:28 AM
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The Instructions

I tried that but it didn't work. I tried again, but this time I copied wtih Ctrl-C instead of File/Copy. It worked:

Here are the instructions we worked from for the disc brake conversion:


1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of penetrant oil on brake line nuts where they screw into rubber lines.

2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by pressing out and discarding studs. Use a swedge cutter if possible. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010” loose fit. This is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. Replace studs with ¼” longer or more studs, such as NAPA #641-1112 or Dorman #610-080.

3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then removing clip. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.

4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nuts facing outward, and caliper opening to the front. Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.

5. Check lug nut engagement depth. Do this by setting loose wheel face down on sawhorses. Lay rotor inside in assembled position, and then place wheel hub inside rotor. Look up at face of wheel, thread a pair of open lug nuts onto studs; studs should protrude thru lugnuts for safety. Also, verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.

6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.

7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.

8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.

9. Assemble pads into caliper, and slide assembly into caliper bracket, lube slide pins with silicone grease then screw in slide pins, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance. Assembly should look as picture.

10. I used 1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado front hydraulic hoses; these were 17” long. Use a piece of rope to find the optimal length and routing for your application first. Install hose with new copper crush washers.

11. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1967-72 Mustang or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Or, simply use your existing master cylinder and plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders.

12. Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car, then bleed entire system and test.

13. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard stops, a series of smooth stops will help bed in the pads properly.



Here are the parts that we actually used:


Rotor (2)
1985-89 Nissan Stanza
85914

Caliper, LH
1983-89 Chevy Cavalier
242-2042

Caliper, RH
1983-89 Chevy Cavalier
242-2043

Hoses (2)
1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado
36959

Brake pads
1983-89 Chevy Cavalier
AE7070BM

Wheel studs (8)
NAPA
641-1112

Master Cylinder
1972 Mustang
47-36251


Deviations we made from these instructions and issues that came up during the installation:

In Step 2 of the instructions, it states that the hub must center itself in the rotor. There was actually a ring that was included in the Scarebird kit that fit between the outside of the hub’s bearing race housing and the inside of the center hole of the rotor that ensured the hub was centered in the rotor.

The new studs called for in Step 2 ended up being too loose in the holes left over in the hub after the original studs were pressed out. We actually ended up epoxying the studs into the holes with JB Weld. I would recommend that if they are epoxied in, the studs should be held in the holes during the cure by torquing up the lug nuts against a stack of washers to ensure the studs are completely seated and straight.

New dust caps for the six-cylinder hubs as recommended in Step 6 are hard to find. I'll need to get them from a specialty supplier, I guess. Until I get a round tuit, I'll make due with my existing battered ones.

The Cadillac Eldorado brake hoses suggested in Step 10 of the instructions fit PERFECTLY. There are brackets on the hoses themselves that need to be removed. We were able to unbend the tab that encircled the hose enough to pull the hose out. I think Roger had to get some banjo fittings (?) to mate the Cadillac hoses to the Cavalier calipers.

Scarebird.com has updated their web site instructions for the 4-lug Falcon installation and have included some of the pictures Kenny took. There is also a string on this installation on the FordSix.com forum that I contributed to with some more pictures.
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Gary MacDonald
ROGER's...
EX... '63 Hardtop
Had...
Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2006, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacDee View Post
The Cadillac Eldorado brake hoses suggested in Step 10 of the instructions fit PERFECTLY. There are brackets on the hoses themselves that need to be removed. We were able to unbend the tab that encircled the hose enough to pull the hose out. I think Roger had to get some banjo fittings (?) to mate the Cadillac hoses to the Cavalier calipers.
They were the banjo bolts needed to install the brake hoses to the calipers. These were, as I recall, the ones that were for the Cavalier, but it was a flurry at the time, so I can't exactly recall what Joe gave us. Can you find those numbers on the receipts (specifically, one of the ones I gave you)?.
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2006, 09:58 AM
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Bolt Part Number

The receipt shows two "bolts" with part number 82703 at $5.65 for the pair. That must be them.
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Gary MacDonald
ROGER's...
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Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #10  
Old 10-16-2006, 04:33 PM
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Gary,

This is a bit off the subject, but I totally forgot about the jack and jackstands! I still don't know about my moving situation, so you're welcome to bring them back if they are in your way (please call first) or if are still using them that's fine too as I don't have any projects planned in the near future. Or, maybe Roger need's to borrow them next!
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  #11  
Old 10-17-2006, 03:20 PM
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Jack and Stands

Thanks, Thor. They're not too terribly in the way; I could hang on to them for a while, bring them back or take them to someone else...whatever. I did use the jack to prop up my sagging front porch while I stuffed some rocks under one of the footings. Came in really handy!
Anyone else need to use a good floor jack and serious jack stands?
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ROGER's...
EX... '63 Hardtop
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200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2006, 11:43 AM
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Gary,

Were you able to keep your stock 13" wheels with the Scarbird disks? Someone on TFFN is asking and I wasn't sure.
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331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI

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  #13  
Old 11-09-2006, 04:20 PM
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13-Inch Wheels

Quote:
Originally Posted by pbrown View Post
Gary,

Were you able to keep your stock 13" wheels with the Scarbird disks? Someone on TFFN is asking and I wasn't sure.
No. I had 14-inch wheels ready to go, but I tried the 13-inch just for kicks. They would not fit over the calipers.

That reminds me... I now have a set of 13-inch wheels mounted with nice 195/70-13 whitewalls for sale. I'll have to post them on the For Sale section.
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Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
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  #14  
Old 11-26-2006, 10:52 PM
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Luva65wagon Luva65wagon is offline
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Hey, does anyone know what the scoop is on getting the Scarebird parts? Do we just contact them, or do we all have to order them at the same time to get the discounted price?
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2006, 04:18 PM
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Exclamation

Please? Does nobody know? Gary? Kenny?
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