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Old 03-28-2009, 10:01 PM
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Floor pans - Rust

Any thoughts on replacing sections of rusty floor pans?

Cut to exact size and butt weld... or cut large overlap and inch or so? If you overlap have you welded from both sides or just seam seal the "raw" side.

What gauge steel?
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:17 PM
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Oh... I have lots of thoughts... none of them good.

I've done it both ways. I find the overlap method to be the easiest and you can then do a simple spot-weld method to put it in and use seam sealer on top and undercoating (the thick brush on stuff) underneath. It'll outlast any of us if the car's taken care of. Doing stitch welding of every inch is very time consuming and you have to move from side to side and minimize the weld sections to about 2" per side to keep warpage to a minimum. It's a floor, so it's not that critical, but all the more reason to do it the easier way. As for metal, get the repop pans if you can.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:25 PM
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Butt weld them if you have the welding skills. Otherwise, a 1/2" lap joint will work. Weld from the top and seal from the bottom. Use 18g steel or buy whole floor sections depending on the amount of rust. I replaced a toe board on mine with a repop version. The quality was bad and I could have done better forming it from new steel.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:35 PM
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I've also done that both ways as well -- making my own and buying repop pans. Repops are usually "bad" if you're hoping they will fit in perfect (and they never do), but there are a lot of compound curves in a floor and personally I think it's far easier to massage bad repops to fit than it is to make them from scratch using totally flat sheetmetal. Of course there are also a few different places making these things. Our Falcon stuff isn't as refined, as say, those made for the Mustang.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:43 PM
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I have a full set of right and left full length floor pans from Dearborn Classics that I got for a Falcon years ago but sold the car before I used them that I'd be willing to sell if you're looking for a set.
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Old 03-28-2009, 10:45 PM
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Roger,

Thanks for assuming that I think that repop pans fit perfectly . I've been doing this for a while and know that they don't. The part I bought looked like someone took a flat piece of steel and bent a curve into it over a piece of pipe. It really was a peice of crap. Your mileage may very.
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Last edited by pbrown; 03-28-2009 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 03-28-2009, 11:46 PM
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Actually, I don't know what I was thinking. Sorry if that came across the wrong way. I'm just typing faster than I'm thinking at the moment since I'm a little behind on posting... but of course mileage really does vary. I've purchased some pans that fit really well, and some that look like the one you mention. Unfortunately not everyone is like you or I who can do it either way, so for most people who'd read this I would still recommend the repops (if available) because they are "usually" bad but not so bad as can't be coerced into place with a little (OK, a lot of) blood-letting.
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Old 03-29-2009, 05:53 PM
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floorpans

how much do you want for that set of floorpans ?
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Old 05-06-2009, 07:14 PM
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Here is a picture of the replacement pan I just received. Al wanted to see if it is a 6 or V8 pattern... did I measure the correct spots?
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:06 PM
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I am sorry, I was refering to the toe board and measuring from the side of the car to mid point of the ribs. Al
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:09 PM
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If you decide to overlap them I have a air flanger/punch you can use to create the recessed portion that the pan sets into. It also punches the holes so you can tack it in place.
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Old 05-06-2009, 08:51 PM
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I'll let you know how my install goes.. I'm not pleased with the quality of the repops, but I don't have the skills to create my own.. unless i wanted perfectly flat floors.. which I really dont care what they look like. its under carpet.

I'm going with the overlap method. about 1" per side, I plan on using rivits to hold the pans in place and then i'll stich weld the permeter.

I currently have the floors cut out, what fun that was.. I had someone's silver fender as a patch and was basicly cutting through two floors.

i need to clean-up my welding area and trim the panals to fit..

Wish Me luck
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Old 05-06-2009, 10:09 PM
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Here is the drivers toe board.

The Front floors were $55 each and the toe was $40. They are 18 gauge.

I know they will need some fitment, but if it's 80% correct, I'm happy.

Al, I think the flange machine is more precision than I want to tackle at this point. Thank you for the offer though.
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:06 PM
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Tomorrow the surgery starts. Interior is stripped, frame rails supported in eight places and Kenny is on stand by with the fire extinguisher. Note the dramatic "night shot".
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Old 06-27-2009, 11:38 PM
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Be sure to remove the brake and fuel line before cutting the floor out. Or just be careful not to cut them.

What condition is the lateral brace? That may need to be replaced at the same time.
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