Nicely done. Now that one is done time to get Genes on!! Looks as though the "Ghetto" garage is holding up as well.
I am glad to see the cover live on. God know when and if I would have ever got to it.[thumb]
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Nicely done. Now that one is done time to get Genes on!! Looks as though the "Ghetto" garage is holding up as well.
I am glad to see the cover live on. God know when and if I would have ever got to it.[thumb]
Yeah - it was a bit of a pain for such a simple project. But lacking actual instructions added to the apprehension of just "drilling holes." If typically life by the rule of measure twice, cut/drill once. But with this I measured about 20 times or more... with moving and tweaking between each.
The car is staying nice and dry under the ghetto garage, It's unsightly, but not any worse that the vehicles that are sitting under those trees and going green by the minute.
Gene's will be far easier to do than mine was. I learned all the tricks doing mine. He's just got to "get there." But he's close. We talked about first pulling his back window out and reversing the rubber and putting it in the right way. Somebody put that in from the outside in (like the windshield is done), but it's supposed to mount from the inside-out.
Also... I heard from a little birdy... that you may be one Ranchero light now and are the owner of a.... CHEBBY! Ahh, the humanity!
A CHEBBY? Has he no shame?
On my way home I stopped at the paint store up on 45th and the freeway and picked up 3 pints of 1-shot sign-painters enamel (red, black, and white) and will now seriously look at putting my hand to doing the pinstriping. Have a few Kafka brushes now and the grid and brush conditioner, ect., all the stuff he uses. Except for maybe the skill. But I can work on that. [thumb]
No takers for a car I can practice on?
I guess Gene will just have to wake up one morning to find I snuck over there and practiced on his "big a** not a Chebby Tundra." Lots of surface area there to work with.
[AGREE]
I think I know where there's a coupla Falcon front fenders to practice on. You have to wash the big a** Tundra anyway. That's prob'ly not gonna happen.
Wait a minute! Think you could kinda hide the scrape on the Tundra driver's side rear fender?
Or..... maybe you could practice in the bed of the Ranchero b/4 I have the bed-liner sprayed?
Or..... maybe under the hood of the Ranchero in the four triangular panels b/4 the insulating stuff goes in there?
Sure [not planning on washing no Tundra]. :)
I do have some rear Ranchero quarters here. Could practice on them... if it would ever quit raining or snowing! It snowed on my way home today.
Good GRIEF! This thread is huge! I just spent the better part of an hour going backwards to find the pics you posted of the holes in the bed floor pan.
Hey gene, I started this in 2008 when roger and I were siting in the fog at the first light of the day going to the snohomish show, and said [ how to tell if your are really car crazy ] and he replyed [ just call me crazy ] .....jh
Hey - I resemble that remark!
You know you are crazy when you find yourself standing in the garage and it's maybe 45 degrees and you are sorting through plastic baggies of screws and bolts and other assorted leftovers from taking 3 cars apart. So yep, the craziness remains...
But it was fun, wasn't it?Quote:
Originally Posted by SmithKid
[thumb]
After Jeff W posted the link to this company in his wagon thread I stopped the process of getting one of these made from someone who wanted $85 for one. This was $28 inclusive of shipping. It's a very nice part. Can't see any flaws in it.
I'll post a link to it in the tech talk forum (it's sort of technical) and it will remain there ever more.
What was wrong with the old one? :ROTFLMAO:Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon
Thanks for the reminder, I'm going to order mine this week. How are you going to crimp the fancy rivet guys?
I have the rivets (he sells them too), but I don't know what tool they use to install them. I'll figure something out. Would like to see if I can do it without removing the door panel, but have not thought that through. Got to stare at 'em a minute or two.
The old one... well... it got stuck in a sand storm me thinks.
I studied mine before removal and it looks like the tool goes at it from the front and sort of reaches into this hollow rivet and expands the soft aluminum tube. I think patience and modified tips on my snap ring pliers may do the trick. A dab of RTV wouldn't hurt either.
Yeah, that's sort of what I pictured in my head and I was going to pick up a cheap pair of pliers or something and grind them into just such a tool. I suspect it takes very little expansion to get these to stay in.
After driving this to Sequim and back everything went pretty well, but I found I had some issues pulling hills hard. Sort of reminded me of the issue I had with the wagon after the regional a couple years ago. It bucks under hard acceleration and wants to stall out. This has that same carb on it now that I had back then, but was fine on the wagon after I rebuilt it. I'll probably swap over the 1100 from the wagon again just to see if it is the carb.
I'm this close to copying Kenny and go with a weber on this thing - but Kenny, your site is down, so I can't see what you've done. Don't see a thread here on that.
Autolite 1100's are just too expensive (though I noticed Steve seems to keep buying rebuilt units from somewhere over there). They're like $300-$500 on ebay and Pony Carbs doesn't sell, they only rebuild. I don't have a core.
If I do a weber, I see them mounted two ways. Classic Inlines mounts them sideways, but that's not how they are mounted on cars they came on. If they are sideways, isn't that a potential issue?
I just dread this. But I'm tired of dealing with these 50 year old carbs too.
That explains why I haven't been able to get to the POP email in a few days. I'll have to get in touch with the guy hosting it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon
Anyways...I don't have anything up about the Weber. One of those things I need to "get to" one of these days!
But I can show you what I've done at the Golden Gardens meet...
I am getting those carbs from my local parts house. They run $175 which includes the shipping. Usually take about 2 weeks to get one.
The one I put on the 65 seems to be doing fine. Haven't had it out too much due to lack of current tabs...
Glad you made it home OK...
Kenny - can you maybe, in the meantime, describe the bits you used? Post a pic or two maybe? I'd like to get something ordered if possible prior to the 21st.
Steve - See, even $175 gets you a 50 year old carb, which the last one you got (which I now have on the wagon) was riddled with vacuum leaks. It's fine now, but I had to do a lot to it to get it to work right.
The webers I see on ebay (brand new) starting at $299 and then I'll have to decide how to mount it. There seems to be a few ways people do it... ranging from $20 to $65 just for the mount. I have a couple cores I've picked up at swaps for pennies (one is the same as on my mom's 80 Capri 2.3 liter) and so I have an idea of their sizing. Not a fan of all the mods I'd need to do, but if it makes a difference - it makes a difference!
What model/part# is the Weber that you guys use. A friend gave me a new still in the box one a long time ago and I'll see if it's the same or not.... Dave
I do have some photos that are fairly current. I'll do this in sections. First the adaptor. The 2 to 1 bbl adaptor I went with was from Stovebolt. Clearance was tight since I have a under hood light mounted right over the carb but you may not have to do some of the things I did to make it work.
I had a machine shop mill some thickness off the top and bottom of the aluminum Stovebolt adaptor. Don't remember how much but I got his advice on how much to leave. I also made another adapter out of 3/16" (I think) steel plate. Used a hole saw for the main opening and drilled holes for the bolts that hold it to the log. Then I threaded some holes and screwed in studs from underneath. These bolts hold this plate to the adaptor. I sawed off the part of the stud that was sticking out of the bottom, welded the studs and ground them flat.
This combination orients the carb in the right direction (bowl forward). If you have plenty of clearance, you can use the common Ford adaptor that has the coolant running through it but it's pretty thick.
The Stovebolt adaptor has 4 holes on both top and bottom square flanges. I cut off two of the corners on the bottom because they weren't needed and they get in the way of the log bolts.
Not a plug 'n play adaptor but I like to fiddle with things and it was cheap. I also port and polished the throat to match the opening of the log better and smooth it out.
The one I'm using is a Weber 32/36 DGV. It's a manual choke. There is also a DGAV for water choke and DGEV for electric.Quote:
Originally Posted by modified17
Here is a link to the carb online.
http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/32_3.../22680.005.htm
Next was the air breather. I wanted mine to look stock so I cut the center section off a spare base and but a flat piece of sheet metal in it's place. I overlapped the base and insert by about 1/2" and put a small bead of sealant between them and then used pop rivets to join.
I used the gasket as a template to cut the part of the insert that the carb comes through. Then drilled holes for the 4 screws that mount it to the carb. Also had to rivet on a bracket that the wing nut that holds the top on could screw into.
Again, some messing around but if you don't care about looking original, they sell aftermarket filters for the Weber.
As far as the linkage goes, I got a cable set-up of a 70's-80's six at the junk yard. I had to modify the bracket that goes over the valve cover to hold the cable that pulls the throttle and the cable for the kickdown on my C4. I don't have a current photo but I bought a lever for the throttle on the carb that is like a cam.
I like the feel of the cable set-up much better than the hard linkage. And the pedal mounted on the firewall is a better way to go than the floor mount IMHO. It gets rid of the possibility of rust where it originally would screw to the floor.
And one other thing you will need with the Weber is a fuel regulator. It needs to be at 2.5 - 3 lbs. and I found a Holly that had a good low range. I had moved my coil off the engine so used those mounting bosses to hold the regulator bracket. I made the bracket out of thick sheetmetal.
So that's it in a nutshell. Lots more details I brushed over. Ask questions and I will fill in the blanks as best as my pea brain can remember.
Awesome guys! Thanks and muchos gracias.
I pulled the carb off tonight and the float was wedged and wouldn't go up and down and may have been restricting fuel. Also, looking at the top of this Holley 1940 the power valve plunger, which has a vacuum operated lift-rod, has been off and on and peened so many times, I'd have a hard time believing it would be sealing and might not be able to suck up like it should. I have to rig up a vacuum source to see, which I started and then decided to call it quits for the day.
Now, seeing the cost of a new Weber on that site ($100 less than ebay) - I'm leaning toward just bagging it and ordering parts. Kenny, your photo's were very helpful.
Will probably still put this one on and see if it's better now, but I really think it can use an upgrade.
I just noticed that there are newer options now to 2V conversions. This looks nice.
http://www.classicinlines.com/prodde...=FSP-200-2VC-W
It does require machining the head but I figure Roger could remove the head, do the machine work, and reinstall the thing in about an hour and a half :ROTFLMAO:.
Probably closer to an hour....
I saw that as well as the other one they sell, which also mounts the carb sideways. Don't know that I like that idea of that for when I want to go drift the thing - or do my 10 second quarter mile.
Actually, the stovebolt adapter is probably just fine. If Kenny hasn't had any issues with it, I can just copy him. I copy everyone else. :D
One other thing I did was have a bit shaved off the surface of the log where the carb mounts. I was having other machine work done so it was cheap.
All this saving space added up and allowed me to put a phenolic spacer between the carb and the Stovebolt adaptor. It was less than $10 and theoretically keeps the carb from getting too hot.
And here's a shot of how I check my clearance. I made cones from some plumber's putty. The pieces of paper are so it doesn't stick to the underside of the hood. Just make the cones plenty tall and shut the hood. Gently lift and see what your clearance is at various points.
So Kenny - was this before or after all the shaving you did? And do you recall what the tightest clearance ended up being, and where was it on this setup.
Get tech tip too, by the way.
Dave... I'm about to order something, so if you have something you are looking to sell, let me know before I hit submit to purchase something else. Would love to help out someone needing to clear off their shelves.Quote:
Originally Posted by modified17
My friend has two of these on a ford 6cyl and he really likes how it runs, it's half of a Q-jet...jh[yay]
All this carb talk brings up an interesting subject: the spacer. I have been tuning my 4160 and I decided to lose the 1" Phenolic spacer. I noticed my cold start up to be much better and warm running to be fine. I have also seen some forums where some are putting in a heated spacer with a valve to shut off for summer and noting improved cold starting and general performance. I know many of the original 170 L6 engines had a heated 1bbl spacer with coolant lines running through them. As Jeff always says, Ford would not have done it if it wasn't necessary or didn't save .10.
I'm not sure yet whats best for my setup and I know anyone can put any information right or wrong out there, but I am curious on the debate.
Brian,
This was the impetus for my question to Kenny about carb icing, which is what happens when the weather it just right - humidity and cold - to cause the rush of air into the carb to freeze the throttle plate(s). Not fun sitting out there keeping to running and it runs like crap for a very long time this way. V8's are much worse because a lot of aftermarket manifolds don't have the heat cross-over under the carb base. Cold charge is best for race day and all.
The other way it was dealt with was with a therm-o-nuclear air-cleaner snorkel with a temp-sensing flap that closed when cold to pull hot air off the exhaust manifold.
On both my wagon and Ranchero I have the stock base w/hot water circulation, but I added a heater control valve on the wagon... years ago... to allow for turning it off in the summer. Never do and have never had an issue that I noticed, like carb boiling over or anything. Doing so also shuts off the water supply to the heater core, so no heat in this mode.
I know height is an issue when you've got to stack one adapter onto another, then another, then the carb. I have no doubt I could engineer a method to control icing, but was just wondering if Kenny has had an issue. The exhaust is right there, and may just be enough due to ambient temp rise from the exhaust.
Have been also looking at these to see if I could do... something completely different:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-DGV-Do...#ht_844wt_1161
Completely different might be an understatement.:confused:
I have considered all of your points on icing and boiling. I have been chasing my cold start issue for a little while and blaming the electric choke but I am finding it to be a set up issue (amazing what you learn when you take the time to read the instructions).
I have the stock exhaust manifold in mine which has the spring activated heat riser in it, the 240 did not have a heated riser in it that I have ever seen. I have seen some guys with Broncos and pick ups with my same setup grab a 4bbl factory coolant heated riser from a 390FE (Thunderbird or Mustang usually) and claim success in resolving their issues.
From what I can conclude from what I have read, if you're after performance cold is the way to go but you get an unpleasant cold starting experience. For typical street use it seems using the heated option is best. Again, since many have custom setups I don't think any one rule applies to all.
I forgot about the heat-riser component. That's the thing that was supposed to FORCE the exhaust gas through the intake manifold, whether it be 6 or V8. When it opens the exhaust took the path of least resistance. These manifold ports always plugged up. It was pretty benign when it was off - same as the air cleaner snorkel heat riser. The hot water approach - not so benign. Unless you can switch it off.
So, yeah, what to do....
Move to Florida or Hawaii.
The only reason I had a clearance issue was because of the underhood mercury switch light that is mounted right where the "X" bracing intersects. Before I shaved anything, the light just barely rubbed a little paint off the edge of itself and I could see a mark on top of the air cleaner. I think it was 3 or 4 inches from the center.Quote:
Originally Posted by Luva65wagon
If it was 1/8" lower I probably would have never noticed. Also, my spacer is no where near 1" thick. Probably more like 3/8". I've never noticed any icing problems. I've always read people commenting that the heater spacer was mostly for parts of the country where the winters are much, much colder than we have around here.
Nothing really new to post here other than to say I did finally get the Weber on and everything has been running pretty well with it. Here's a link to the thread about that for "future reference."
http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums...ead.php?t=1826
Have no real plans for it now other than to drive it for a while. Thus, this sort of officially closes this crazy thing I did until what time the V8 goes in. I will say... it's a fun car to drive - even with a L6.
As a few of you know by now I am moving into phase 2 of my Flarechero project. When I built this car it was always my plan to do a V8 with the 65 289 I bought about 6 years ago off of Craigslist for $500. Well, that time has arrived. I finally pulled the pieces out from under the bench a few weeks ago and started cleaning them all up.
What I got for $500 was a block (bore/honed/new cam bearings), Crank ground .010/.010, new TRW pistons (.060), Rings (installed and one broken) 2 cams (1 too radical and 1 just right - Edelbrock 2122), Lifters, Crane roller rocker set (missing one ball seat and nut) 2 sets of roller cam/chain set, 1969 302 heads with 1.99/1.60 valves, hardened seats, very nice rebuilds, New-in-box 'Performer' intake, oil pump, gaskets (missing a head gasket), new flex plate with ring gear... and an FMX tranny (/boat anchor).
Had to get a lot of new things and stuff to replace what was missing. But new radiator, starter, water pump, dipstick, oil pan, valve covers, a roller rocker ball, rings, gaskets, etc, Dougs headers. Lots of little things.
After [a lot] of cleaning, it turns out, I am finally in the assembly process. The block had to have all the freeze and core plugs pulled, drilled out and tapped the drain 1/4 NPT plugs, which were frozen in place. Quite the pain. Cleaned and rehoned to clean up some surface rust that developed. It was scrubbed and readied. Polished the crank - again had surface corrosion, but nothing deep. Heads were wrapped, so they are pristine. Pistons were gunked up but had been coated with something. They cleaned up like new.
So as of today I have the crank and cam in and the timing chain and pistons installed. Next will be the pump and heads.
The plan is to do the swap over the weeks of October 17 to November 4 while my GF is out of town. :D
For anyone who's interested, the engine in the Flarechero is coming out and will go into my wagon, since it is 66 dual bell-housing style - as well as all the weber carb bits. Should wake up the wagon. Then I have offered the 65 200 from the wagon to Gina for a negligible amount, if she wants it, to give the Comet I sold her a little more pep. If she doesn't, it will be made available. The wagon motor runs like new, but like the potential to someday go away from the Dagenham. I may take the opportunity to do hardened seats and swap heads (I have a head I can send off now, if I wanted to).