Loose cups can't be fixed correctly, so that's a bummer. Good they caught it now though. They'll do a good job so you can get all 650 HP to the wheels!
:3g:
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Loose cups can't be fixed correctly, so that's a bummer. Good they caught it now though. They'll do a good job so you can get all 650 HP to the wheels!
:3g:
Larry
Who built your new 9"
I found them on EBay but their name is Quick Performance. They are highly recommended in the racing links. Here is their ebay store.
http://stores.ebay.com/Quick-Performance-Racing
The person I talked to is Brydon 641-751-8060
Larry
Hello, Larry.
Is the new driveshaft aluminum? What does it weigh, and how much less does it weigh compared to the original steel driveshaft?
Was the driveshaft that was replaced steel or aluminum?
I recently had my drive shaft balanced and new universal joints installed. In retrospect I wonder how much extra money it would have cost and how much weight would have been saved if I had requested to have the original shaft replaced by an aluminum one "while I was at it".
Thanks, Dennis.
Dennis, I went with steel again. I talked to several people who race their cars and they used to run with aluminum, but they wore out too fast for them. I checked with Summit and Jegs for pricing and it really isn't a whole lot of difference to buy the aluminum.
My driveshaft was 2 3/4 in diameter and they recommended at Drivelines Northwest that I go with the 3" for my horsepower and drag racing plans.
The weight of the steel one I am getting will be 19 1/2 lbs. and the aluminum would be 13 lbs.
There are benefits to both. You can get aluminum driveshafts or even composite for drag racing, but not near the cost of the steel shaft.
Take a look at the different internet sites and see what you think. I value your input a bunch. Larry
Hello, Larry.
I looked into the aluminum driveshaft idea a little bit and found a discussion of aluminum driveshafts for 1979-1983 Mustangs. That seemed similar to a Falcon. See: http://www.americanmuscle.com/do-i-w...body-tech.html
A one piece aluminum driveshaft costs $429. They said "A stock steel driveshaft (for a 1979 - 1986 Mustang) weighs approximately 20 pounds, whereas a Ford Racing aluminum variant tips the scales at around 13.5 pounds for a savings of 6.5 lbs".
The lighter weight is supposed to reduce the inertia and allow it to get spinning quicker to allow faster take-offs. The faster acceleration would probably be in the hundredths of a second range and not perceptible to the driver.
Like you said, though, they evidently do wear out quicker. I saw this post on a Mustang board: "I have a shaftmasters driveshaft that started vibrating noticeably, so I took it off the car and put back the stock driveshaft. Sent the aluminum one to Shaftmasters to check it out; and they tell me that the slip joint is worn out; they'll fix it back to like-new condition for $395."
If everything else were equal, it would be nice to have a 6.5 lb lighter driveshaft. It would be difficult, though, to justify spending $429 to save 6.5 lbs. The Ford engineers of 53 years ago would have considered all of this when they selected a steel driveshaft for my car. I will defer to their judgement and keep my stock driveshaft. :)
This has got nothing to do with the drag racing topic, bit I will insert it just because it is cool. A guy on a Mustang board said that in the past he had a 1960 Dodge (not AMC) Matador. I had never heard of a Dodge Matador before and I had to find a picture of one to see what it looked like. Wow!!! That car would attract attention if you drove it around town. Dang.
Attachment 5525
God Bless America!
Went to put in my new driveshaft today and instead of shortening it 1 1/2" they made it 1/1/2 longer. Took it back to Drivelines Northwest and they will fix it.
Will work some more on installing the line lock tonight.
Dennis, that Dodge was a very popular model when it came out. There were quite a few of them around, but not sure where they all went. Still love that body style.
Nanana 12, not sure about the reply? Did I miss something?
Hello, Larry.
I've been thinking about this.
The lighter weight aluminum driveshafts are promoted as a way to reduce inertia so as to allow it to get spinning quicker to allow faster take-offs.
But, ... you do not spin a drive shaft in isolation. A driveshaft is engaged with the differential so you are also pushing the 3000 pound weight of the car while you are spinning the drive shaft.
I do not think that the argument about the aluminum driveshaft having less spin inertia has any relevance at all. The only advantage is in the actual 6 1/2 lb weight reduction (which is not very much).
Dennis.
Remember, I'm an "old-guy" so be gentle with me, but back in the day (late 50's), we used to shave our flywheels (don't recall how much), and the quicker revving COULD be felt in the seat of our pants (or maybe we just convinced ourselves that we felt it). Ya hafta remember that the entire drive-train including the wheel/tire combination becomes a mass that must be rotated (flywheel effect) and the mass of the entire vehicle must be overcome to accelerate. So shaving the flywheel (or drive-shaft) becomes a pretty small factor. But we had no other way to measure as we weren't legally racing in timed events, and dyno's weren't available to us either.
Handsome dude with my 1st car (circa 1956 or 57)... $35.
That is a great picture Gene
It was a 1930 Model A Ford Coupe. I also had a 1929 two-door sedan (cost $25) that was the parts car to get it roadworthy. I took the auto-trade class in HS and the '30 was my project car. Did a complete overhaul including scraping the poured babbitt mains and rods (no inserts allowed by the instructor) in class. Those engines had no oil pump, but relied on splash. Only drove it for a few months because I foolishly decided to see how fast I could get it to go down a looooong hill on HS graduation night (got it up to almost 70 and blew the engine). Crazy!!!!! :mad:
Hello, Gene.
I think that Model A's had a "normal" top speed of about 50 mph, so you were really screaming at 70 mph.
What did you replace the Model A with?
I sure wish I had pictures of my 57 chevy. Oh well. Dennis you and I agree about the aluminum driveshaft. The discussions on the drag racing sites, almost all said that with a stick shift where you are more likely to start off the line with higher revs were causing the aluminum shafts to tweak and especially wear out at the u-joints.
That was enough for me to not worry about the 6 1/2 pounds. And after installing that 100 pound third member I figured heck with worrying about the weight.
The 9" ford axles were also heavier. The housing is heavier, so weight???
Larry
Dennis, my 'A' would top out on the level at 53 to 55. Yes, it WAS screaming at the speed I got it to, and afterward I felt very foolish. The next car I owned was a '49 Ford two-door. Had it for around 6 months and got rid of it to join Army. Sorry I hi-jacked your thread, Larry.
FWIW, I agree totally with both of you regarding the aluminum drive-shaft. There are far better/effective ways to save weight.