Don - I bought my elastomer spring perches on eBay (~$50 each), but many Mustang vendors sell them too. Having now installed two sets of springs using these - as opposed to the 'stuck in the opposite direction as you'd like them to be' solid-in-place perches - the elastomer versions helped with the spring install. It's still not fun.
I have an internal spring compressor I've had to modify to work with the Falcon. It was too long, for one, and I also had to add about 1.5" of spacers on the top to keep the threaded rod from extending out the bottom of the compressed spring - and plowing into the spring perch. Yet, I find I need to fight to get it compressed enough to fit in the space, and yet not have the shaft of the compressor extend out the bottom too far and interfere. You can see in the first image (this in not mine) how someone else added the length of square tubing as a spacer, but also how - if they tighten much more - the thread will extend from the bottom. Truth is, had I not cut a lot of the threaded rod off, I'd have needed a spacer that long too.
If the tower shield is off (on the outer side) I do have a Snap-on spring compressor as well, which might work way better. I'm always too lazy to pull that outer shield off. But it might allow for more compressing with zero getting in the way - assuming the shield and fender of the car allow it to fit under there. Again, this one pictured below isn't mine (but looks just like it) - and you wouldn't want to compress beginning on the top and/or bottom coils, where they have to go into the spring seats.
Last edited by Luva65wagon; November 10th, 2014 at 01:13 PM.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Latest....
On the perches...the new "stuck in place" versions I have really point "out" when you lower the upper control arm, making it very difficult combined with the end of the spring being on the inside. (note, my aprons are off.) When I look online at the other perches available like the ones noted by Dennis however, I'm seeing that most of them are not for 61's, they're for newer models (those were stated to be for 65 or newer.) I also notice that my spring coil is of smaller diameter and the spring is longer than the springs on newer models...I think by at least a couple inches.
I pulled my old perches out of the bin, I pumped some grease in there and played with them a bit on the vice and they seem to break loose nicely and rotate smoothly now (they were completely stuck before.) I think at this point I'm going to take Nathan's advice and clean them up, paint and reuse.
I picked up the spring compression tool norm has, and I'll give it a try in the next couple days...
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
Got one side in tonight...Man, what a job. I used a combination of Norm's inside style with a brass pipe on top, then also had to use the outside type positioned just right.
Check out my spring perches in the pic...these are the old ones restored! I can't believe how nice they look. It's almost too bad they're under the fender. My rattle can technique is improving.
I used nylon webbing glued on with body sealer for the pads.
Other pics...one before pic, and now one after pic...hopefully I can get the other side tomorrow.
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
Got both sides back in, tires on, and the car back on the ground...but the springs seem fully extended (even with the engine in.) Not sure if I "stuck" a ball joint (..I didn't use the special tool..), but it does seem to move when I shake the car. Will this just settle back down on it's own? Has anybody experienced this?
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
I finally got the suspension straightened out...(passenger side ball was pinched a bit from one of the last tries and tore the boot a little..)
However, the tool I broke down and bought from ebay was absolutely superb. I mean this thing compresses the spring quickly and easily, and it seems much safer too. It goes inside and mounts like a shock.
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
So this pulls the spring perch - and spring - up into the hole at the same time, and then you feed the two spring perch pivot bolts into the upper control arm? If so, how well could you tell the upper spring seat landed in the right spot?
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Correct. The big advantage is that this tool is compressing from one end of the spring to the other end using the spring perch and the shock mounts- and feels very secure and safe as it does. It's a heavy solid tool.
For my situation this time I already had everything installed, but I let the upper control arm push too far down so it cocked the ball too far and it got stuck. (Per the manual I should have used the brace...but I never could get compressed enough to do so.)
The falcon manual explains it like you describe, but the instructions for this tool suggest it a bit differently: you leave the spring perch attached to the upper control arm, but have the upper control arm unbolted from the car with everything aligned. Then point the A arm mounting bolts the correct direction, poke the spring and tool up through the big hole in the fender and through the shock mounts, add the washer and nut, tighten and it will pull it up into place- when it's there, slip the A arm bolts in, spacers, and bolt them on. (I had the tape all over the shock mounts so I wouldn't scratch them up too bad.)
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
Interesting. I don't like the idea of hefting up the entire control arm, but I suppose it would work. I think with the front struts and everything semi-firm below I don't think you have to worry about the support they mention. As I mentioned to you that night I seem to recall reading that 'support tool' was to allow leaving the spring in and compressed while doing ball-joint repairs - or other work below the upper control arm. It held up the upper control arm. But I'm not certain how you could ever have that in and remove the spring - even with a tool like the one you just got. Spring height, unsprung, is just long.
Anyway - good job! I'll have to check out that tool when I need to do springs again.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
I see what you mean...and since it doesn't have any weight in it now, my car still looks a bit like a gasser with the front sticking up the springs are so long.
Don Bartlett
Federal Way, WA
61 Four Door Sedan
144-6, 3 on the tree
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