This is a pretty good link:
http://www.ranchero.us/forums/showthread.php?t=13268
This is a pretty good link:
http://www.ranchero.us/forums/showthread.php?t=13268
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
I just edited my last post after realizing that I forgot to include the link to the diagrams.
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
Good Morning to all,
There must be an easier way! I'm just going to put it off till last. I will start by locating an 3G altenator, a V pulley without a fan, and a 6 gauge wire with an in line fuse. I am thinking of an Autolite 130 Amp 3G, but getting a V pulley the correct size will be a challenge.
PBrown, thanks for the powermastermotorsports link, but they sell altenators for 66 and up applications. Nothing for my 63.
I am going to study the 3G diagram in the other link you sent. I have seen some posts on our sight that say the wiring connections are "stupid silly". In the mean time I'll just keep installing the other parts and pieces.
On a side note:
I came across a product that will stop gas from spilling down the back of the car during refills. It looks good but you will have to see for yourselves. It is sold by Griot's Garage, www.griotsgarage.com , product #45533, name FuelGuard, price $12.99. What do you guys think?
May be a good gift idea.
Enjoy your day,
Guy
Well I changed my direction today. It was so nice outside I took a trip to the junk yard. Today, outside anywhere seemed so much better than inside the shop. Plenty of winter days coming up for inside work!
I found 2 altenators from late 80s to early 90s Fords with pulleys. I do not know which one to use but I like the outside fan look better. My little 170 came with a generator which also came with an outside pulley. Plus you can tell it was just installed off of the car I found it in.
Please take a look and tell me what you guys would pick.
I just rewrapped and installed all of the wiring in the engine bay two weeks ago. I went into the shop this morning and started thinking how much I did not want to redo all of that work. Thats when I decided to change directions today.
If nothing else, if all of this is making some of you guys laugh, well then its all worth it.
Laughing at myself,
Guy
The first one looks like a 3G alternator, and the second a 1G.
The body of the first, being offset mounting points, would be hard to adapt. The pivot and the the clamp parts need to be 12 and 6 oclock.
The 1G will fit just fine with the new bracket, but will need an alternator style regulator mounted over where the Generator regulator was. And a few wiring harness changes.
And of course... you could bolt up a generator again.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
Use that one with the external fan. Go back to the yard and grab the voltage regulator and the pigtail from the same car. It will bolt in where your old generator version was. It will have one more wire than the old generator system.
You can also buy a regulator and connector new from most parts houses.
If you don't feel comfortable with the electrical work of an alternator, I would recommend a basic one wire unit. Once you get it bolted on, it's just a matter of connecting the big charge wire to the battery.
Patrick Brown
331 Stroker / T5 / 8" / Wilwood Disks / RRS R&P Steering / Megasquirt EFI
For what it's worth...
I did an alternator conversion on my '63, but didn't do the 1-wire thing. I used the diagram in this link:
http://www.mustangsteve.com/GENtoALT.html
It uses your existing wire harness, except that you need to add two wires, clearly noted on the diagram. I used the alternator from the '67 Mustang that donated my [first] 200 engine. I bought a new regulator from the local parts store, and used a #10-12 Quick Splice from the local True Value hardware store for my "junction block". It was easier that I expected.
One additional thing that I've read on other forums, but not included in this diagram, is the addition of a 15-0hm resistor across the charge indicator light. I got a 15-ohm resistor from Radio Shack and spliced it in behind the instrument cluster. That was kind of a hassle; had to remove the instrument cluster. MY guess is this is merely to reduce the voltage across the indicator light so it lasts longer. Without the resistor, the charge light would probably get a quick blast of 15 volts when you first fire up. I don't know how important this is, but you sure don't want your indicator light burning out if it's your only indication!
Anyhow... I'm just sayin'....
Last edited by MacDee; November 14th, 2011 at 08:45 PM.
Gary MacDonald
ROGER's...
EX... '63 Hardtop
Had...
Scarebird front discs
200 w/ CI alum head
C4
I went with the 1G alternator and did some rewiring. I've since rewrapped the harnesses so it looks nice and neat. You can get a new connector for the regulator from O'Reilly for cheap:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1539&ppt=C0189
I didn't add the resistor but I do remember reading about it. I have a voltage gauge as a backup.
Kenny Likins
Ballard, Seattle, WA
www.redfalken.com
`62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)
Guy,
I'm leaning with Gary's suggestion for you. Keeps it very stock (post '65) looking, which it is clear you are shooting for. And it should make for minimal modification to your already wrapped harness,
If you are interested in the bracket I mentioned earlier, I can throw in the wiring, connector, and a regulator, which I no longer use because I have 1-wire on both my Falcon's.
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
Luva65wagon,
If I go with the 1G externally regulated altenator why can't I just run the 3 wires that would have connected to the generator to the altenator? I was very lucky to find one with a pulley setup.
What are the wiring, connector, and a regulator you have that I will need to make the connection. I do need the braket, that is the only thing I am sure of!
Guy
You can use the wires that you have, but there are a couple you will need to add - and ends will need to be changed to be correct, which includes the connector that plugs into the regulator. It does not have the screw terminals like you have on a generator regulator. I have a few of those connectors laying around here. You can have it all, and use of it whatever you need.
I'll send it all to you for $35 ($30 for the bracket, which is what I paid for it, and $5 for shipping).
Bracket w/adjusting arm
Regulator (w/next to no hours on it)
Connectors w/attached wire
Roger Moore
63 "Flarechero"
powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear
OK
Send me a measage here on site mail. Please tell me how to get the payment to you.
Got the tranny bolted up, (*&^right leg up again the tranny, left leg operating the floor jack handle up and down%^&***), routed some hoses, ran fuel and vacuum lines, and installed the carb. I also got a new voltage regulator from Checker, part #R400P. It is made to except the plug you are telling me about Luva65wagon. It came with a life time warrenty, (BWD Engine Management Technology) is whats on the box.
I found out why the fuel pump has to be mounted in what seems to be upside down. You'll see it in one of the pictures.
I had fun today in my own backyard shop. Played the radio, (got to be 50s or 60s going in my place), and just enjoyed being a free American working on an American car in my American neighborhood. Sorry, didn't mean to carry on.
Good Evening,
Guy
Guy, your work is beautiful! Keep it up!
Gene Smith
Fredrickson, WA
'65 Ranchero Deluxe
302, EFI, 4-Spd
Granada Discs
Very nice!!!!!!
Bill Proctor .. 1963 Falcon Sprint. Looking forward to learning new things.
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